29 Sept 2015

10 Beautifully Preserved Historic Hotels in Barcelona http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

The Spanish poet and playwright Federico García Lorca once said, "In Spain, the dead are more alive than the dead of any other country in the world." That statement couldn't be truer in Barcelona: History is everywhere you look in the capital city of Catalonia, from the Romanesque courtyards of the Barri Gòtic and the medieval storefronts of El Born to the exquisitely preserved boutique hideaways and palatial lodgings peppered throughout this Mediterranean metropolis. We've picked ten of Barcelona’s most beautiful historic buildings-turned-hotels, each with a heritage that’s almost as well-heeled as their clientele.

By Kristan Schiller



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15 Best U.S. Resorts for Fall Getaways http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

As we head into the heart of the fall season, there’s no better way to celebrate the changing of the seasons than to escape into nature. Fortunately, many of the country’s best resorts cater to leaf peepers with special tours and programs that allow guests to enjoy awe-inspiring views and the crisp autumn air. Whether you’re looking for guided fall foliage hikes, off-road Jeep excursions, or nightly bonfires, you’ll find perfect fall activities at one of these top resorts in the U.S.

By Zachary Laks



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28 Sept 2015

Charleston's Top 13 Experiences http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

From carriage rides to historic homes, Charleston offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler's list. Here are Fodor's top picks for the most memorable trip.



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25 Sept 2015

10 Best Art Deco Buildings in Miami Beach http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Miami's famed South Beach is an architectural treasure chest thanks to over 800 examples of art deco, all of which were built in the years following a devastating hurricane that razed the city in 1926. The Art Deco District is only one-square mile, and some of the most dramatic buildings overlook the beach on Ocean Drive, so exploring is easy. Here are our 10 favorites to check out next time you're in Miami.



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Long Weekend in Moab, Utah http://ift.tt/1NSM2t4

Dead Horse State Park, Moab

Moab is known as the adventure capital of Utah thanks to its “slickrock” mountain biking trails and white-water rafting along the Colorado River. It’s also the gateway for Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. When it comes to the scenery, there’s nothing quite like this place. Its otherworldly red-rock landscape has doubled as alien planets in Star Trek and John Carter, and also provided the backdrop for movies ranging from classic John Wayne films to Thelma & Louise.

However, there’s more than scenery to this laid-back town that attracts adventurers from all over the world. Visitors can go off-roading in remote canyons, rock climbing, jet-boating, and zip-lining. But if you’re looking to take a break, there are also hot-air balloon rides, museums, and wineries to enjoy. Fall is one of the best times to visit Moab, as the crowds have thinned out and the weather is pleasantly warm, no longer reaching triple digits. Here’s how to spend a perfect long weekend in this corner of Utah.

Day 1

Castle Creek Vineyard, Moab

If you’re approaching Moab from the north, drive along scenic route 128, which winds along the Colorado River. Take in the canyons and red rocks and be sure to look down as you approach town, as you might see rafting expeditions. Some of the most luxurious places to stay, Red Cliffs Lodge  and Sorrel River Ranch, are on the outskirts of town, but if you’re looking for more space and the chance to wash your clothes, which will inevitably get covered in red dust, then rent an apartment from HomeAway, such as this new townhome. Even if you’re not a guest at Red Cliffs Lodge, it’s worth a brief stop to visit the on-site Castle Creek Winery, which produces reds and whites (a bottle of Petroglyph white makes an ideal gift). The hotel is also home to the Moab Museum of Film and Western Heritage, which highlights the films shot locally, such as Rio Grande starring John Wayne, as well as cowboy culture.

Have an early dinner at the Moab Brewery, which serves up hearty fare like pork carnitas and fish and chips. The names of the microbrews on tap pay homage to the area, such as Squeaky Bike Nut Brown Ale or Dead Horse Amber Ale, the latter in honor of the state park. If you still have room, finish off with a gelato from the counter near the front door.

Day 2

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Wake up early for the short drive to Arches National Park, home to more than 2,000 sandstone formations. The most famous is Delicate Arch, but if you want to beat the crowds, go at sunset or sunrise. No matter what time you set out, bring plenty of water for the three-mile hike, which offers little shade. To explore the park in a leisurely way, take the eighteen-mile scenic drive, and stop at Windows, which is home to the park’s largest arches, as well as Balanced Rock. Bring your own lunch, as there is no place to purchase food in the park.

On your way back into town, stop in at the madcap Lin Ottinger’s Moab Rock Shop, which looks like a junkyard crossed with a museum. Its founder was an amateur (but successful) paleontologist whose dinosaur discoveries have been donated to museums; and the Iguandon Ottingeri, which he discovered just north of Moab, was named after him. The shop is filled with rare fossils, gems, and bins of crystals that kids will love digging through.

Stop to refuel at the Peace Tree Juice Café, a casual spot serving up smoothies, quinoa salads, and burgers before browsing the shops along Main Street. Pick up an authentic Stetson hat at Western Image (39 North Main St.; 435/259-3006). Triassic sells locally sourced, handmade, wooden housewares and accessories such as cutting boards, swings, and end tables. The Tom Till gallery showcases the local artist’s photographs of Moab and the southwest.

Moab landscape

Leave your fear of heights in the parking lot of the Moab Adventure Center and climb inside a customized vehicle for a sunset Hummer safari tour. Your guide will take you to Hell’s Revenge, a slickrock trail; expect a white-knuckle ride up and over the rocks—the steepest hill the Hummer can climb is at roughly a 39.5-degree angle. Guests are rewarded with sweeping views of the La Sal Mountains and Arches, and can also see dinosaur tracks embedded in the rocks. 

Day 3

Time to squeeze in one last adventure: Take your pick from mountain biking, white-water rafting, or a guided hike through Fiery Furnace, an unmarked trail through towering sandstone walls. Or rent a 4x4 Jeep Wrangler from Canyonlands Jeep and Auto. The Moab area is home to hundreds of miles of off-roading trails with names like Steel Bender, Wipe Out Hill, or Metal Masher. The rental office will give you a booklet with detailed trail maps and directions, and every car is outfitted with a GPS tracker in case you get lost. Expect to spend five to six hours off-roading  Be sure to try Gemini Bridges off Highway 191: After a steep climb up a hill with plenty of switchbacks, the trail opens up to a desert scrub landscape. (Look out for a towering rock formation called Gooney Bird.) The Bridges themselves are two adjacent arches over 100 feet high, located deep in a canyon—they can be seen by standing at the canyon’s edge and looking down. It’s a steep drop-off, so watch your step.

Drive back to Moab and relax at Eklecticafe, a small café set in a garden. The look is ramshackle but welcoming, and the menu serves up fresh fare such as quiche with roasted potatoes, and an avocado BLT. Make sure you save room for pie.



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24 Sept 2015

15 Things Not to Do in Hong Kong http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Often described as New York City on steroids, Hong Kong’s frenetic pace, glowing neon lights, towering skyscrapers, and dense urban sprawl can overwhelm even the most experienced traveler. And that’s before you even consider the bounty of restaurants, museums, sights and outdoor adventures on offer here. Whether you’re heading to the “Fragrant Harbor” for two days or two weeks, this expert advice will help you avoid some common pitfalls and ensure a foolproof trip to Hong Kong. 

By Kate Springer



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5 Reasons to Visit Kansas City http://ift.tt/1YEFHXc

Kansas City plaza

Did you know Kansas City, Missouri, has more fountains than any other city in the world except for Rome? Here are some other things you probably didn't know about the so-called "City of Fountains": It has ample parks, expansive boulvards, and, in recent years, a growing influx of young professionals with sophisticated tastes. A visit to this hip, friendly Midwestern city offers a range of cool corridors, from upscale Country Club Plaza to laid-back Westport to the bustling Crossroads District. In Kansas City you'll also find plenty of niche eateries, a robust cocktail scene, indie coffee shops, fashionable stores, plenty of art, and, of course, two popular (and winning) professional sports teams. Recounting the lyrics from Wilbert Harrison’s 1959 song, “Kansas City, here I come…” and below are five reasons you should visit.

Boutique Shopping

Standard Style, Kansas City

In the historic East Bottoms, the general store Urban Provisions offers a range of handcrafted products supporting local artisans (think soaps and candles). The small niche department store Halls, in Crown Center (where Hallmark resides) carries classic and on-trend labels for men and women, from Ralph Lauren to rag & bone. In the trendy Crossroads District, the artist Peregrine Honig founded the fun lingerie boutique Birdie, which sells colorful intimates for every shape and size. The Webster House, situated in an old schoolhouse, offers a range of antiques and gift options. Just upstairs, the on-site restaurant offers mains like seared salmon with tapenade potatoes pairing perfectly with a glass of sauvignon blanc. On Country Club Plaza, an outdoor shopping area with beautiful Spanish architecture reminiscent of Seville, extremely chic Standard Style (pictured above) is the place for hot fashion labels like 3.1 Phillip Lim and Aesop products. A block down, gents will find plenty of in-house-made jeans at Baldwin Denim to match Surf Saturdays tees. The narrow shops at the charming Crestwood offer an array of options from George, a light-filled lifestyle store carrying clothing, local art, and books; to Underdog Wine Company, perfect for a bottle of vino to go (there are around 400 bottles) plus craft beer and bean-to-bar chocolate.

Diverse Dining and Drinking Options

Port Fonda, Kansas City

Ample food and drink are gloriously at your disposal in Kansas City. In the historic Westport area, the popular Mexican spot Port Fonda is always packed with tipplers who come for margaritas, extra large cans of Tecate, and the legitimate mezcal program. Chef Patrick Ryan is a master at the wood-burning oven, whipping up pork and red chile tamales with Chihuahua cheese, and roasted pork belly with dried cherries, frijoles, knob onions, salsa, toasted peanuts, and queso fresca. 

The neighboring and recently renovated Blue Stem, led by James Beard Award-winning chef Colby Garrets, is a low-key restaurant with high culinary ambitions like artfully plated tasting menus and a well-stocked wine program. Just snacking? Visit the bar for a cheese plate or charcuterie board and a proper libation.

Rieger Hotel and Grill, Kansas City

Near downtown, in the Crossroads District, The Rieger Hotel and Grill serves up a homegrown KC strip steak with smoked butter, and the hearty rabbit sausage is paired with tomatoes, jasmine rice, and zucchini sauce. Below, the candlelit speakeasy Manifesto functions as a late-night option for the cocktail set.  

Sunny, casual Belfry, helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Celina Tio spins out snacks like pulled-chicken nachos with Manchego cheese, and hearty classics like burgers and rigatoni with house-made Italian sausage. Beer aficionados will appreciate a healthy selection of 20 taps.

Kansas City’s oldest bar and grill (open since December 1933), The Peanut on Main Street, is a divey affair with a lively crowd sipping on an array of beers in plastic cups and munching on chicken wings dressed in blue-cheese dressing as well as triple BLTs stacked high crispy strips of bacon, and plenty of mayonnaise.

For the discerning coffee, look no further than Oddly Correct, an industrial-looking storefront outfitted with wood and steel; their caffeinated beverages are served by gents who take their brewing methods seriously.

Art A-Go-Go

Nelson Atkins Museum

Kansas City takes its art seriously and so should you. The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art (free admission) boasts a stunning contemporary addition by Steven Holl. There’s also the lovely Isamu Noguchi Sculpture Court, a broad collection of Asian Art, and a new home for the Marion and Henry Bloch Collection of Impressionists and Post-Impressionist Art. After some art education, sip a glass of wine at the tranquil, indoor sculpture garden of Rozzelle Court.

Kemper Museum, Kansas City

Across the street, the smaller Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art (free admission) has a growing permanent collection that includes works from Georgia O’Keeffe, Louise Bourgeois and Dale Chihuly.

In the West Bottoms, galleries like HAW Contemporary and Bill Brady showcase local and regional art. In between visits, stop at the popular old gas station spot known as Genessee Royale for burgers and Bloody Marys (bacon is optional), or Amigoni Urban Winery for a snack and a local glass of wine.

Sports, Barbecue, and Beer

Arrowhead Stadium, Kansas City

A Royals game during baseball season is a must, but most locals will tell you a trip to their hometown is incomplete without a visit to Arrowhead Stadium, home of the Kansas City Chiefs.  For the true experience, pack a BBQ tailgate and a pigskin for tossing; if you don’t have a portable grill, nab your provisions from the famed Joe’s Kansas City (the original gas station spot). Order the famed, award-winning Z-Man Sandwich with slow-smoked beef brisket, smoked provolone cheese, and crispy onion rings on a toasted Kaiser roll.  

Arthur Bryants, Kansas City

Closer to the stadium, the legendary Arthur Bryant’s BBQ (where Presidents Truman, Carter and Clinton have dined) is great for an authentic slab or two of ribs while the no-frills LC’s Bar-B-Q has mouth-watering burnt ends. Of course, all Kansas City BBQ washes down well with a crowd-pleasing Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale from the local Boulevard Brewery, which you should tour. Inside the stadium, the raw energy of the fans coupled with the chanting and a sea of red (nearly 80,000 strong) make the spirited Arrowhead an epic, memorable outing.

Hip Hotels

Fairmont Kansas City

The 132-room Hotel Sorella appeals to a younger, stylish set thanks to rainfall showers and a lovely white, blue, and charcoal palate, while the classic, venerable Raphael has warm décor and walking access to Country Club Plaza. Both families and leisure travelers alike appreciate The Intercontinental's sweeping views of the plaza (ask for a room on a high floor) and Champagne inside the dark, clubby Oak Room.



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23 Sept 2015

Long Weekend in Adelaide and the Barossa Valley http://ift.tt/1FvtVYF

Adelaide, Australia

Once overshadowed by Australia’s flashier eastern metropolises, like Sydney and Melbourne, Adelaide is ready for its close-up. The laid-back capital city of South Australia enchants with its vibrant culinary scene, world-class arts festivals, ample parkland, buzzing nightlife, perfectly gridded and pedestrian friendly downtown, and accessible escapes to some of the country’s most celebrated wine valleys. It is, in short, an opportune place to spend a relaxing but event-filled long weekend.

Day 1: Adelaide

South Australian Museum

Spend the morning learning about the rich history of South Australia at the complex of museums along the northern edge of Adelaide's city center. The South Australian Museum holds an impressive collection of artifacts from Australia's Aboriginal people, including boomerangs, paintings, and bark canoes. The nearby Migration Museum, which tells the knotty history of immigration to Australia, is a good complement to these galleries. Afterward, marvel at paintings and sculptures from some of the country's most renowned artists at the Art Gallery of South Australia.

Central Market, Adelaide

A few hours of museum-going can build up an appetite, so the next stop should be Adelaide's famed Central Market (closed Sunday and Monday; hours vary on other days). Established in 1870, this landmark site is one of the largest food markets in the southern hemisphere. Wander through stalls teeming with regional fruits and vegetables, freshly caught seafood, kangaroo meat, local cheeses, and gooey pastries. For lunch, you can either nosh on grub from the vendors here, or cross the street to Paul's Seafood on Gouger. This Adelaide institution has been serving scrumptious King George whiting—a flavorful white fish that is popular in South Australia—for more than six decades.

Adelaide Haighs Chocolates

Set aside a few hours in the afternoon for shopping excursions through Adelaide's trendy boutiques. Not to be missed is Rundle Mall, a pedestrian-only shopping street lined with major international brands and local designers. If you need a sugar-fix, make a beeline for Haigh's Chocolates at the intersection of Rundle Mall and King William Street. This century-old, family-owned confectionary shop whips up tasty chocolates with unique flavors like wattleseed crunch and lemon myrtle cream.

As one of Australia's emerging culinary hotspots, Adelaide has seemingly endless outstanding options for dinner. A solid choice is Street ADL. This casual eatery has an energetic vibe, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and a menu that might include such creative dishes as salt-and-pepper kangaroo tail and crocodile hot dogs.

Day 2: The Adelaide Hills

Adelaide Hills, Australia

Mere miles outside the city center are the Adelaide Hills, a pastoral region of rolling green countryside, idyllic towns, and scenic vineyards. Here, you can take bushwalks through lush forests, browse through quaint country stores, and, if you're lucky, spot a koala in the wild. Note that since the sights in this area are spread out, it's best either to rent a car or hire a tour guide from Adelaide.

Cleland Wildlife Park

Start the day at Cleland Wildlife Park, roughly fifteen miles southeast of Adelaide. Here, kangaroos and emus roam free in certain areas, while spacious enclosures house iconic native species like wombats, echidnas, Tasmanian devils, bandicoots, and dingoes. But the true highlight of any trip to Cleland is the opportunity to hold a koala—one of the few places in Australia that affords this experience.

After you've had your animal fix, drive to the nearby Waterfall Gully parking lot, where you can embark on a [easy? Moderately challenging?] 2.3-mile hike up to Mt. Lofty. The trail winds past gushing waterfalls and striking gorges on its way to the summit of the most prominent peak in the Adelaide Hills. At roughly 2,300 feet above sea level, the summit offers stunning views of Adelaide and the Southern Ocean.

Be aware that the trails to the summit are steep. If you'd prefer to skip them, it's an easy drive from Cleland to the top of Mt. Lofty. Keep your eyes peeled along the way for wild koalas in the high branches of the eucalyptus trees. At the top, you can grab coffee and lunch at The Summit, a café with floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the valley.

Hahndorf, Australia

Dedicate the afternoon to exploring the charming town of Hahndorf, roughly fifteen miles east of Mt. Lofty. The oldest surviving German settlement in Australia, Hahndorf still retains much of its Teutonic heritage, both in its architecture and its food. Along the town's Main Street, you can sample regional cheeses and beer, taste local vintages at winery cellar doors, and shop for such gifts as cuckoo clocks and wool sweaters.

At night, head back to Adelaide and grab dinner and drinks at one of the hip establishments that have popped up on trendy Peel Street recently, such as Gondola Gondola or Clever Little Tailor.

Day 3: The Barossa Valley

Barossa Valley, Australia

Roughly an hour northeast of Adelaide, the Barossa Valley has some of the oldest and most esteemed vineyards in Australia. It is renowned for its full-bodied red varietals like Shiraz, and dry, acidic whites like Riesling. It is also perhaps the country's most picturesque wine region, with its babbling creeks, colorful orchards, and rows of grape vines that snake up yellow and green hills dotted with grazing sheep.

The best way to explore the Barossa is through a guided tour so that you can sample wine throughout the day. An excellent option is A Taste of South Australia, which is run by Mary Anne Kennedy, an energetic, experienced, and knowledgeable guide. Her full-day tours provide a comprehensive overview of the Barossa Valley and stop at several of its best vineyards.

Seppeltsfield, Barossa Valley

Among the numerous vineyards in the Barossa, the most unique is Seppeltsfield Winery, roughly two miles outside the town of Marananga. Founded in the mid-nineteenth century, Seppeltsfield has set aside a few barrels of Tawny Port every year since 1878. Specialized tours of the grounds allow visitors to sample port from their birth year (A$60) or taste a 100-year-old Tawny (A$100). The complex flavors of this century-old drink, which resembles motor oil in the glass, are not easily forgotten.

Hentley Farm, Barossa Valley

Near Seppeltsfield are two other iconic wineries in the valley—Jacob’s Creek and Penfolds—both of which offer tastings. But if you’re interested in visiting an emerging vineyard, stop by Hentley Farm Wines, a boutique, single estate vineyard that has snagged numerous awards since its first wine was released in 2002. The tasting room is in a rustic farmhouse from the 1840s, while the adjacent restaurant serves a rotating menu of dishes sourced from local ingredients.

If you prefer to stay the night in the wine region, opt for the Novotel Barossa Valley Resort. The rooms at this sprawling resort all come with private balconies and stellar views across the valley, and there are hiking trails and an 18-hole golf course nearby. From the resort, it's a short drive to the town of Tanunda, where you can dine on flavorful Vietnamese cuisine at fermentAsian. It’s a memorable way to end your long weekend in South Australia.



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22 Sept 2015

Savannah's Top 12 Experiences http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

From ghost tours to antique shops, Savannah offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for the most memorable trip.



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5 Reasons Smaller Cruises Might Be Right for You http://ift.tt/1ivJpBy

Small River Cruise Ship

It’s a cliché, but it’s true: Bigger isn’t always better—especially, for certain types of travelers, when it comes to cruise ships. While large cruise lines do offer some amazing amenities—from Broadway-style productions to lavish spas to sprawling ice-skating rinks—sometimes it’s the little things that make a big difference. We talked to some industry experts who agree: If any of the below apply to you, consider booking your next sail on a smaller ship.

You Don’t Like Crowds

Think of it this way: Chances are you won’t be competing for a lounge on the sundeck. Smaller cruise ships are more sparsely populated, and fewer people means less hassle during embarkation and disembarkation.

“You can walk on and off the ship with more ease and no lines,” Margarita Navarrete of CruisePlanners.com points out. “This comes in handy especially during sightseeing. You can tour in the morning, come back on the ship for lunch, and leave again in the afternoon or evening. Guests can come and go as they please.”

You Enjoy Being Spoiled

Personally monogrammed pajamas, butler service, a poolside steward who’s ready to polish your sunglasses—these are some of the niceties that come with an intimate ship.

“Smaller ships have a high level of service,” says Stewart Chiron, founder of TheCruiseGuy.com. “It’s a completely different experience with fewer people as there is [with] a higher ratio of crew to guests.” This allows the crew to pay more attention to detail, such as what your favorite cocktail might be.

“Recently on a Seabourn cruise, the bartender would have my husband’s brand of Scotch at the ready and hand it to him on his way through the lounge,” says Linda Coffman, founder of CruiseDiva.com. “On some lines, everyone has a butler, not just passengers in suites,” she adds. That can make a meaningful difference for travelers who are celebrating.

“We celebrated our wedding anniversary on a Silversea ship, and when we left our room our butler handed me a long-stem red rose,” Coffman says. ”When we came back from dinner that night, there was a special table set up in our room, with a cake and balloons. Small ships go out of their way to make those occasions special. You won’t find that on a large ship unless you pay extra.”

You’re a Foodie

Not only are open dining times a valued bonus (passengers are not relegated to timed seatings on small ships), but smaller can also be better in terms of food quality. A manageable dining room allows for local sourcing, for starters.

“If you are on a small ship in Alaska, for example, you are likely going to have salmon for dinner that was caught that morning,” Coffman explains.

A small kitchen makes all the difference in quality, too, says Sudesh Kishore, executive chef of SeaDream Yacht Club.

“When one has a well-designed, compact kitchen, the executive chef has complete control of all aspects of the operation and is able to check every dish going out of the kitchen for quality. Having the executive chef personally involved in the food preparation is only possible in a smaller operation.”

On ships like SeaDream I and SeaDream II, the number of guests in the dining room is on par with any medium-sized restaurant. Therefore, food is prepared to order, which is impossible on a large cruise ship feeding thousands of passengers.

You’re an Adventurous Traveler

Small ships have the advantage of accessing ports that large ships can’t. This can mean anything from traveling up the Thames in London to chasing the Northern Lights in Scandinavia to getting up close and personal with sea turtles in the Galapagos.

“Small ships tend to go to off-the-beaten-path ports. In fact, only small vessels can travel through places like the Galapagos or Antarctica,” Chiron points out. “Even in places like the Mediterranean, where I have been many times, it was a small ship that took me to spots that I have never seen, and that a larger ship couldn’t dream of getting into.”

And there are special perks that come with small-ship access, too.

“I sailed on a Silversea ship that docked on the river right across from the Hermitage in St. Petersburg,” Coffman says. “So the Hermitage opened early, just for people on our ship. We were the only visitors in the building that morning.”

If you’re an explorer-type looking to tick destinations off the bucket list, some small lines, like Quark Expeditions, which specializes in Arctic and Antarctic cruises, come equipped with kayaking, skiing and mountaineering equipment.

You Want to Meet Like-Minded People

Are you a shutterbug? Wildlife enthusiast? Cyclist? Wine aficionado? Many small cruise lines offer themed experiences where passengers can meet others who share common passions. For example, the luxury small river-cruise line AMAWaterways features art cruises, on which guests can take painting classes, attend lectures by art historians, and visit where the masters worked. Customized land tours are also geared toward small group excursions that range in style, difficulty, duration and theme.

“Nearly everything is customizable on a river cruise,” says Kristin Karst, AMAWaterways executive vice president. “There is truly something for everyone.”

A serial traveler who often lets a country’s cuisine dictate her itineraries, New York City-based writer Kathleen Squires has visited all 7 continents and over 60 countries, with stints living in London, Tokyo, and Buenos Aires. Her work also appears in The Wall Street Journal, Details, Saveur, Cooking Light and National Geographic Traveler.



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21 Sept 2015

Top 10 Places to See the Northern Lights http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Every traveler’s bucket list should include viewing the northern lights, also known as aurora borealis, one of nature’s most spectacular phenomena. And while scientists predicted that December 2013 would be the peak of the current solar cycle, and thus the best time to see the northern lights, recent celestial activity suggests that this winter will offer plenty of viewing opportunities as well, with earlier-than-expected sightings in August as far south as the United Kingdom. The viewing season typically lasts until March, and ideal viewing conditions are crisp, cold, clear, and cloudless skies in locations with little light. If you want to catch nature’s most impressive light show, head to one of these ten destinations near the Arctic. And if you want to capture the astonishing sights, check out our top tips for photographing the northern lights.

By Lola Akinmade Akerstrom



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Top 5 Whale-Watching Spots in New England and Atlantic Canada http://ift.tt/1YxDJry

Want a whale of a tale to tell? For nature lovers, very little compares to the thrill of coming up close to these gentle giants of the sea. Thankfully, you needn't venture to the other side of the planet to ensure an exhilarating encounter, with the coastal waters of New England and Atlantic Canada teeming with humpbacks, pilots, finbacks, minkes, and many more of these beautiful behemoths. Here, we've rounded up five of the very best regional destinations within these fertile Atlantic coast breeding and feeding grounds, where you're sure to be filled with wonder as you spot these incredible creatures.

Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick & Nova Scotia

Bay of Fundy whales

When to Go: June–October; August is peak season.

Wedged between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, this marine paradise features a safe harbor nursery, and nutrient-rich, tide-fed feeding grounds for as many as a dozen species of whales. Whale-watching excursions depart from both bay-fronted Canadian provinces, including St. Andrews, Deer Island, Grand Manan Island, and Campobello Island in New Brunswick, or Digby Neck or Long and Brier islands in Nova Scotia. Choose from tours operated via catamarans, fishing boats, motor/sailing vessels, and even tall ships, but our very favorite outing is aboard a Zodiac, like those run by Fundy Tide Runners, which afford unforgettable eye-level encounters on the water. Once on the bay, humpback, minke, and finback whales are especially commonplace, not to mention dolphins, porpoises, seals, and seabirds. The waters also serve as a nursery for the endangered North Atlantic right whale, while less commonly seen species to look out for include sei, pilot, blue, sperm, killer, and beluga whales.

Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary, Massachusetts

Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary

When to Go: Mid-April–October; come in October for a chance at leaf-peeping, too.

Ranked among the best whale-watching sites in the world by the World Wildlife Fund, the Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary, a protected marine area situated off the coast of Massachusetts at the mouth of Massachusetts Bay, attracts some 1.5 million whale watchers annually. More than a dozen Massachusetts–based boat companies run whale-watching excursions to the region, with the majority departing from Cape Cod (from former nineteenth-century whaling town Provincetown, especially), thanks to its close proximity to the bank. However, it's possible to set out right from the midst of Boston Harbor, or from further up the mainland's North Shore in Gloucester. Many vessels supply expert naturalists on board who can help point out the humpbacks, pilots, minkes, and finbacks that frequent these waters, along with the endangered North Atlantic right whales, for which Cape Cod Bay provides an important breeding ground. Sightings are so frequent, that many operators even guarantee them. For a special bonus, come later in the season, to pair the tail end of whale-watching season with the onset of fall foliage.

Newfoundland, Newfoundland and Labrador

Newfoundland whales

When to Go: May–September; June and July offer the best chance to see icebergs, too.

The island of Newfoundland (in the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador) offers optimum whale-watching conditions that attract a staggering twenty-two species of whales. In fact, the world' s largest population of humpbacks (more than 10,000 annually) congregate here, drawn by a bountiful feast of krill, capelin, and squid. Minke, sperm, orca, fin, and pilot whales are also regulars, as are blue whales, the largest animals on the planet, growing to lengths of up to 100 feet. Time your visit right, ideally in June or July, for the unique opportunity to pair whale-watching with the spectacle of drifting icebergs, as they float down "Iceberg Alley" on their southerly migration from Greenland. Key regional whale-watching launch points are clustered around Newfoundland's northern and eastern coasts, at Twillingate/Fogo Island, Bonavista/Trinity, St. Anthony, St. John's, Witless Bay/Bay Bulls, and the area around St. Vincent’s Beach, where whale-watching and icebergs can be viewed via options like motorized boats, sea kayaks, or even while hiking from a seaside trail.    

Bar Harbor, Maine

Bar Harbor whale watching

When to Go: May–October; combine peak viewing with Atlantic puffin spotting from mid-June through August.

Not far from Acadia National Park, launching from the pleasant waterfront resort town of Bar Harbor, the Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company brings whale-watchers out about twenty miles offshore into the Gulf of Maine. What sets the company apart is that it's not only the biggest boating company in Maine, but that it offers the largest whale-watching vessel in North America, a jet-powered catamaran called the Atlanticat that can carry up to 400 passengers. Sign up for several themed tours, including classic whale-watching outings, sunset excursions, and combined puffin- and whale-watching trips (Atlantic puffins can be found here from late May–August). Most commonly views species are humpback, finback and minke whales, though Atlantic white-sided dolphins, harbor porpoises, seals, sharks, and ocean sunfish are commonplace, too. Sightings of pilot, right, sei, and sperm whales aren't unheard of, either.

Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

Cape Breton Island whales

When to Go: May–mid-October; August is the best month for snorkeling with whales.

Follow Cape Breton Island's scenic Cabot Trail roadway north to Pleasant Bay, where several whale-watching boats operate (many touting sighting guarantees) and the Whale Interpretive Centre is based. Pop into the interpretive center to take in multimedia exhibits illustrating the 16 species of whales that frequent the offshore waters (including a life-size model of a pilot whale). Pods of Atlantic pilot whales are predominant here, and you can also count on porpoises, seals, and seabirds amid the maritime mix. Excursion options include traditional sightseeing vessels, as well as more adventurous Zodiac boats, but nothing beats the new-for-2015 offering for snorkeling with whales on the western coast of Cape Breton, out of the town of Chéticamp (just south of Pleasant Bay). Sign up with Captain Zodiac Whale Cruise to partake in this incredible Zodiac-run experience, wherein snorkeling encounters may be had with finbacks, humpbacks, pilots, minkes, and dolphins and porpoises, too (available from July–mid-October).



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Santa Fe's Top 14 Experiences http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

From Native American cultural attractions to its burgeoning dining scene, Santa Fe offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.



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19 Sept 2015

20 Ultimate Things to Do in Chicago http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

The Windy City, the City of the Broad Shoulders, the Second City—there’s a reason Chicago has so many nicknames: this is a city of multitudes. That also means there’s a lot to do here, from fine dining to award-winning local theater to cultural gems like the Art Institute of Chicago. Needless to say, it’s impossible to do everything, but there are some experiences that simply shouldn’t be missed. Whether you’re visiting Chicago for the first time or the tenth, here are twenty things you absolutely can’t miss.



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17 Sept 2015

How to Spend a Perfect Week in Haiti http://ift.tt/1MfQCQq

Cap Haitien

Forget everything you think you know about Haiti, and disregard any disturbing images you may have seen in the news. This resilient Caribbean nation is ready for curious, open-minded travelers to once again experience its vibrant Creole culture and stunning natural beauty.

Five years after a devastating 7.0-magnitude earthquake, Haiti is striving to rebuild by redeveloping its tourism industry. (Though often disregarded as a destination, this country was formerly a Caribbean hot spot with the moniker “The Pearl of the Antilles” during its heyday in the 1950s—the Clintons even honeymooned here in 1975.) As the country works to put itself back on travelers’ radar, now is the perfect time to see the sides of Haiti that are often overlooked: its undeveloped beaches; fascinating, centuries-old forts; and unique, Vodou-infused art.

From joining in the revelry at Carnival in Jacmel to basking in the breathtaking Bassin Bleu waterfalls, Haiti is full of unforgettable experiences for the intrepid traveler. But the most unexpected moments are the ones that involve learning about life in Haiti, in all its complicated ways, straight from the warm and resilient people who call it home.

For first-timers in Haiti, these are the three destinations you must visit: lively capital Port-au-Prince, artsy beach town Jacmel, and historic port city Cap-Haitien (shown above). But there’s also an endless number of local people you need to meet to really get to the know “the real Haiti,” so don’t be surprised if one week here isn’t enough.

Experience Haiti’s Living History in Port-au-Prince

Port-au-Prince

Make your home base for your Haiti adventure Port-au-Prince; while chaotic and crowded, this is the center of Haiti’s complicated history and the best place for seeing it fuse with everyday life.

Local tour guide Jean Cyril Pressoir of Tour Haiti, a father-son duo that's been in business for eleven years arranging personalized tailor-made tours for the gamut from celebrities to budget travelers, will take you to all the requisite sights, from the remains of the National Palace to the Unknown Maroon statue. Learn about Haiti’s turbulent past by visiting the Musée du Panthéon National, where you’ll get a guided tour through this museum of Haitian history. Don’t miss the gallery wing, where there’s a rotating monthly display showcasing Haiti’s most influential artists.

Pick up some souvenirs at the Iron Market (Marché en Fer), the symbolic heart of commerce in Port-au-Prince that was one of the first buildings rebuilt one year after the devastating earthquake and even redesigned with solar panels. Meander through its overwhelming maze of vendors selling everything from dried starfish to beguiling Vodou art.

For something truly unique to bring back from Haiti, head to Port-au-Prince’s iron-working community of Croix-des-Bouquets, where the traditional Haitian metalwork was born in the early 1950s. In this well-maintained, bougainvillea-lined neighborhood, you’ll be able to see (and hear) the 100 or more talented metalwork artists pounding intricate details out of steel drums in their workshops and stores.

Port-au-Prince art

Rethink art and sculpture at the artist community of Atis Rezistans, where contemporary Haitian artists are creating new life out of the rubble: car parts, broken metal, old shoes, computer keyboards, discarded dolls, and, yes, even human skulls. Make sure you go here with Tour Haiti so you’ll get personal introductions to the eccentric “sculptors of Grand Rue,” as they are known in the art worlds around the globe.

After a long day trekking through Port-au-Prince, you might be in the market for more comfortable footwear. Grab a new pair of shoes and a tour of Rebuild Globally, an inspiring non-profit that provides jobs and education for Haitians, primarily women. See how the stylish Deux Mains sandals are designed and hand made out of old tires and local leather and leave with a feel-good and wearable memento from Haiti.

Take a break from sightseeing and enjoy an aperitif (fried plantains and rhum punch are our go-to here) at the storied Hotel Oloffson. This historic gingerbread hotel is owned by Haitian-American Richard A. Morse who also doubles as lead man for R.A.M., a fifteen-member Rara band that is famous for drawing locals, NGOs, aid workers, and tourists alike to sweat it out together on the dance floor to “Vodou Rock” on Thursdays night. 

Where to Stay: The recently opened Marriott in Port-au-Prince offers a new level of luxury for travelers in Port-au-Prince while still sourcing everything from produce to bath products directly from local businesses. You’ll feel like you’re spending a night at a stylish art gallery with the 1500 pieces of Haitian art, curated by renowned Haitian artist Philippe Dodard, appearing throughout the hotel.

Take in Jacmel’s Seaside Arts and Adventures

Jacmel

Once you have experienced the intensity of everyday life in Port-au-Prince, you’ll be craving a slower pace and a refreshing dip in the Caribbean Sea. Just a few hours drive from congested Port-au-Prince is Jacmel, a sleepy seaside town known for its distinctive and imaginative art scene. If you’re not lucky enough to visit Jacmel during its annual Carnival celebration, you can still see the papier-mâché masks that are created for the last hurrah before Lent being made year-round at artists’ studios.

After strolling through the colorful colonial streets, rest your feet and get the best rhum sour of your life at Hotel Florita, a turn-of-the-century coffee-plantation home that was converted into a hotel in 1999. Filled with intriguing local art, this historic hotel’s restaurant and bar is a popular meeting spot for tourists and locals alike.

Bassin Bleu Waterfall

A visit to Jacmel, or Haiti for that matter, wouldn’t be complete without seeing one of the most hidden gems in Haiti, Bassin Bleu, an oasis of turquoise-blue pools and cascades nestled in the town’s lush hills. After a bumpy ride through palm-tree lined dirt roads and a short hike, you’ll be rendered speechless when you finally arrive at Bassin Bleu’s highest waterfall that’s sure to have a few local boys taking jaw-dropping jumps into the shimmering swimming hole below.

If jumping off rocks into Bassin Bleu isn’t enough of an adrenaline rush for you, take a surf lesson with Surf Haiti, the first surf school in Haiti started at Kabik Beach. Founded after the earthquake by an American doctor that wanted to share his passion of surfing with young Haitians and help inspire a new tourism market, Surf Haiti is now run by two French surfers who also manage an accompanying treehouse-inspired guesthouse.

Whether you attempt surfing or not, watch the sun set at Kabik’s Le Reference, a tiny beach hut that serves fresh-caught fish, conch, and lobster. You won’t mind how long it takes your fresh fish to be grilled (hint: order before you’re ravished with hunger) with lantern-lit dining tables just steps from the breaking waves.

Where to Stay: Just outside of downtown Jacmel is Hotel Cyvadier Plage, an seaside hotel with adequate rooms, but an incredible view from its perch above a glittering blue-green cove that calls for sunset dips.

Explore Haiti’s Opulent Past in Cap-Haitien

Citadelle Laferriere

Once you have toured Port-au-Prince, dive deeper into Haiti’s past with a visit to Cap-Haitien, a colonial port city on the north coast that’s brimming with history.

After you hop off the quick 25-minute flight from Port-au-Prince and check into your hotel, head straight for Cap-Haitien’s most popular attraction, Citadelle Laferrière. This imposing fortress was built in the early 1800s atop a mountain seventeen miles south of Cap-Haitien in the town of Milot. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Citadelle Laferrière is one of the largest fortresses in the Americas, and the biggest in the Caribbean.

Whether you take a donkey ride or climb up the six-mile-long steep road that leads to the fortress, you’ll have earned the breathtaking view at the top. Take a moment to marvel at the magnificence of a fortress that took 20,000 men fifteen years to build and that houses over 365 cannons.

Close to the Citadelle lies another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the remains of Sans Souci Palace, once considered the “Versailles of the Caribbean.” The opulent residence of former slave Henri Christophe, who was a central figure in the Haitian revolution that succeeded in gaining independence from France in the early 1800s. The self-proclaimed king of Haiti’s palace was damaged and abandoned after an earthquake in 1842, but now serves as an important reminder of the nation’s prosperous past.

Where to Stay: Family-run Habitation des Lauriers is a charming, 22-room boutique hotel overlooking the Cap-Haitien Bay that’s in a convenient location for exploring the town. Or if you want to combine your history tour with some beach time, stay at Cormier Plage, a resort that’s just outside Cap-Haitien on a secluded palm-tree lined golden beach.

Want to explore Haiti with a group?

If you want the security of traveling with a group and a knowledgeable local guide, G Adventures is a pioneering sustainable adventure travel company that began offering ten-day trips to Haiti in 2015.

English in Mind, a Haitian-led adult language school in Port-au-Prince, offers ten-day volunteer trips throughout the year that include teaching, light service work, and visits to Haiti’s beautiful beaches and mountains.

Kathleen Rellihan is a travel writer who first got hooked on Haiti while volunteering with English in Mind. Now you’ll find Kathleen in Haiti several times a year hiking to waterfalls, attempting to learn jokes in Kreyol, and getting her fried plantain/rhum sour fix.



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Fall 2015 Guide to Paris http://ift.tt/1YiA0xT

A cultural cornucopia awaits visitors to Paris this fall, especially for travelers looking for something a little off the beaten path. Two top-tier museums will reopen after multi-year renovations as part of an exciting new season of festivals, top-notch art exhibitions, and the city's leading food and wine events. There's plenty to inspire a last-minute trip if you haven't booked already!

New Museums

Musee de l'Homme PAris

Esteemed as much for research and scholarship as for its stupendous collections, the Musée de l'Homme—in the iconic Palais de Chaillot—reopens on October 17 after a six-year total overhaul. New state-of-the-art displays focus on the question, "What does it means to be human?" Exhibitions are filled with the museum's priceless artifacts, including everything from the 20,000-year-old Venus of Lespugue to Descartes' skull. There's something fascinating for all ages here, plus an enticing restaurant and a gift shop.

Musee de Parfum Paris

This beautiful new Musée de Parfum Paris (free admission) is dedicated to the art and history of perfume making. Opened by the Costa family, founders of the renowned Grasse-based perfumer Fragonard, the museum tells the story of French perfume through historic objects and the family's own vast collection of art objects, vials and bottles, distilleries, and more, many exhibited for the first time. You'll want to linger in the museum shop where knowledgeable guides offer samples to help you find the perfect fragrance.

Not-to-Miss Exhibitions

Wifredo Lam

A pioneer in surrealist art and a friend of Picasso and Braque, Wifredo Lam is considered one of the leading lights of modernist painting. He was influenced by surrealism, magical realism, modernism, postmodernism, and Afro-Cuban symbolism, and an exhibition of his work at the Centre Pompidou (September 30–February 15) takes a welcome new look at this artist who transcended cultural boundaries.

The Grand Palais is hosting the first retrospective (September 23–January 11 devoted to the extraordinary artist Elisabeth Louis Vigée le Brun, who began her career in the courts of Louis XV, where she painted his fashionable wife, Marie Antoinette, and his children. Vigée le Brun triumphed over the limitations of a modest background and the usual constraints of her gender to become one of the most accomplished and celebrated portraitists of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Paris.

It's an excellent time to discover, or rediscover, one of Paris's hidden gems. Now through February 14, the superb Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature features two extraordinary exhibitions. In one, there are twenty canvases by the American painter Walton Ford (created for the exhibition) that play on the tradition of academic zoological painting with irony, humor, and the artist's singular vision. In the other, wildlife photographer George Shiras presents a sublime and magical world of animal life at at night.

Arts Festivals

A hotly anticipated fall event, each year the Festival d'Automne assembles a world-class roster of performers in contemporary dance, theater, performance, art, cinema, and music in venues in and around Paris. There's everything from jazz performances by La Monte Young in the soaring Saint-Eustache church to the Trisha Brown dance company performing at the National Theatre de Chaillot. Find a detailed calendar of events and ticketing online.

Gathering all the top names in contemporary art, this year's FIAC (Foire Internationale d'Art Contemporaine) runs from October 21–25 at the Grand Palais and several other venues around town including the Tuilerie Gardens, Place Vendôme, and the Jardin des Plantes. The festival also features a schedule of performances, films, and lectures.

Food Festivals

Each fall, Paris hosts a roster of irresistible events around food and wine. This city is the world epicenter of chocolate, and the Salon du Chocolat (October 28–November 1) presents and awards the world's greatest chocolatiers. The yearly Fêtes des Vendanges de Montmartre (November 7–11), a five-day blowout party celebrating the grape harvest at Paris's last producing vineyards on the heights of Montmartre, features music, dancing, children's events, beekeeping and winemaking classes, fireworks, tastings and the introduction of the 2014 cuvee. And then, for four glorious days, wine lovers can taste to their hearts content the great appellations from every corner of France, including bio and natural wines, at the Paris edition of the Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendents (November 26–30). A small admission price gets you a tasting glass and free reign of more than 325 winemakers, plus plenty of French regional delicacies for a delicious lunch or dinner break.

A Notable New Boutique

Le Bon Marche

Indulge your inner shoe fetishist at Paris's chicest department store. Le Bon Marché's new L'Espace Souliers, a designer-shoe salon, is the latest mecca for the very best in women's French and European shoe design. The soaring, skylit space assembles hundreds of shoes, including pairs that are personalized and made-to-measure.

A Hot New Hotel

Les Bains Paris

It took the newly opened Les Bains about a nanosecond to become the hottest spot in the Marais. With a chic bar, restaurant, spa, in-hotel fashion boutique, stylish rooms, and parties every night, you hardly need to leave the premises. Ask for a room with a terrace or an outdoor shower, a first in the city.

Delicious Eats

La Maison Plisson

Speaking of the Marais, the wonderful new Maison Plisson is the place to go for a quick bite, take-home gourmet meal, or simply to see and be seen. A gourmet grocer on one side and a stylish café on the other, you'll find an excellent handpicked selection of the best French delicacies, from jams and chocolate to Champagne, foie gras, and fresh produce. The café, with its huge outdoor terrace, serves delicious warm dishes, cold salads, gourmet sandwiches, natural wines and juices, and desserts, all reasonably priced considering the neighborhood.

Nearby, the new gastropub Rosemary has all the best French-inflected, gourmet British comfort food. Everything is chic yet totally unpretentious, and the staff is friendly and eager to please. Order a Pimm's classic cocktail or a hand-pulled Siren craft brew to go with your house-pickled trout or beef Wellington. Great-value prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner make this a bargain to boot.



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16 Sept 2015

10 Things You Didn't Know You Could Do in Indianapolis http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

As the host of the world’s largest single-day sporting event, the Indianapolis 500, it’s hard to link the city of Indianapolis with anything other than racing. But the city is thriving, and it offers travelers an abundance of options to fill up a visit: Museums and art galleries line the streets, the restaurant scene is booming, and there's a collection of monuments and memorials that are comparable to those found in Washington, D.C. It's also worth noting that that their airport (the first international airport designed and built after 9/11) has been named the best airport in North America every year since 2012. Downtown you'll find lots of activities at Lucas Oil Stadium, the Indiana Convention Center and the Circle Centre Mall. Meanwhile, White River State Park offers more than 250 acres of green space for your enjoyment. If you're happily surprised, you'll be glad to know there's more. Here are ten experiences you probably didn’t know you could find in Indianapolis.

By David Duran



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Fall 2015 Guide to Chicago http://ift.tt/1Md3xCw

The City of the Big Shoulders, as poet Carl Sandburg once famously dubbed Chicago, is flaunting some serious culture cred this fall with openings of boutique hotels, restaurants from celebrity chefs, and a major arts event. Fans of fall foliage won’t want to miss a brand-new hiking trail, too, snug in the heart of the city. Never before has the Windy City been this prepped to be a style setter. Here's everything you need to know about the upcoming season in Chicago.

Hotel Openings and Renovations

Hotel Allegro

Fresh off a $15 million renovation Hotel Allegro is a Theater District property that has been restored to to its glam 1920s roots. Climb the staircase, marvel at the the spacious lobby, and sit for a drink at the new bar—even if you’re not staying here: the chandeliers, light fixtures, furnishings, and art (including the 10'x6’ Lady Lucent of Awakening by Chicagoan Sarah Raskey) completely channel the Jazz Age and Art Deco period.

Another new facelift is at the former Conrad Chicago, which recently became part of Starwood Hotels & Resorts’ Luxury Collection brand and transformed into The Gwen, A Luxury Collection Hotel. Tucked into the Mag Mile shopping district, the hotel was inspired by Gwen Lux, a pioneering Chicago-born sculptress whose work was influential in the early twentieth century. Accordingly, the design of The Gwen harkens back to the grandeur and glamour of Chicago in the 1930s.

Sporting Gothic and Art Deco touches, with a bit of old-school prep, the Chicago Athletic Association has become one of the buzziest hotels in town. Located across from Millennium Park, the hotel was originally a private member’s club dating back to the 1890s, and it was reborn in its current incarnation in May thanks to Commune Hotels & Resorts. Chicago’s second Shake Shack is in the hotel, as is Cindy’s, a rooftop eatery overlooking the park. The celebrated firm Roman and Williams was tapped to do the rooms, complete with marble baths and custom bed frames.

Virgin Hotels—yes, from Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin empire—first and only property opened in the Loop back in April. Behind its gold doors are five eateries: among them, Miss Ricky’s, a retro diner dishing up late-night bites like Sriracha chicken waffles; and the Commons Club, perfect for day drinking. Design candy in each of the rooms includes a sliding-door concept dividing the sleeping and dressing areas, a vanity, and guests get access to the hotel’s Lucy app. There’s also a spa with a hammam as well as a 26th-floor rooftop bar.

Restaurant & Bar Openings

GreenRiver

Of the crop of celeb chefs descending upon Chicago this fall, Danny Meyer is among the newest to step foot in the city, on the heels of his first Shake Shack, which opened last year. His latest project, GreenRiver opens in Streeterville this month. A veritable lesson in cocktails and Chicago history, the drinks list, built by a mixologist formerly of The Aviary, is organized by raw materials and includes concoctions named after Irish-American notables 1871 and 1930. Alinea alum Aaron Lirette is at the helm in the kitchen, so expect great things from the food menus as well.

Critical darling Grant Achatz will open Roister any day now, too, in Fulton Market next to the Aviary and Next. While details have been mostly under wraps, some info has leaked, including that it will be nothing like Achatz's other restaurants, and an open flame will fuel some of the dishes. Other chefs with Chicago roots debuting new eateries this fall are Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard, with her Chinese-inspired, 100-seat concept Duck, Duck, Goat joining her wildly popular Girl & the Goat and Little Goat; and Rick Bayless, continuing his crusade to educate on food throughout Mexico with a West Loop concept (Cruz Blanca Cerveceria) that includes a microbrewery.

Speaking of Bayless, one of his protégés, Anselmo Ramirez, has set up shop in off-the-beaten-path Albany Park, on the city's northwest side, at Ixcateco Grill. Recipes on the short—but deeply imaginative—menu stem from his family’s kitchen, in Guerrero, Mexico. Food Network devotees, take note: “Sandwich King” Jeff Mauro plans to slap together some pretty amazing ‘wiches at his first restaurant. Pork & Mindy’s is set to open in Bucktown later this year with many meat-heavy options shoved between slices of bread.

In October, Boka Restaurant Group—which includes Izard’s Girl & the Goat—will introduce Swift & Sons, a steakhouse in the Fulton Market District. Tucked into a former cold-storage facility with lots of concrete and raw materials woven into the décor, only responsibly raised meats are on the menu, and the name links back to the neighborhood’s roots as a meatpacking district, with Gustavus Franklin Swift being one of the pioneers.

Like Eataly? Richard Sandoval’s Latin version, Latinicity, will be about half the size of the Italian-foods emporium (that’s still pretty big) and feature twelve food stalls, a restaurant, and a bar. It opens in October inside Block 37, a shop-and-dine center in the Loop.

Proof that Chicago is currently a hot spot for craft beer, the late-September opening of Forbidden Root’s West Town brewpub will be in the shell of an historic theater, focusing on botanical brews. (Translation: using all-natural ingredients, like black walnuts, licorice, and black pepper in the Shady Character Porter.) Imbibing fans will also want to step into history at the soon-to-open, Brit-themed Queen Mary Tavern in Wicker Park. The menu will feature cocktails drank by British Royal Navy sailors while at sea.

Cultural Events

Chicago

The first-ever Chicago Architecture Biennial (October 3 through January 3) will feature 100 participants from around the globe, spread across six venues including Millennium Park and the Chicago Cultural Center. Also on the agenda: lectures, films, performing artists on opening weekend, and Late Night at the Biennial events and Tuesday Talks at the Chicago Cultural Center. The inaugural event pays tribute to the city's fine architectural history, with buildings by Frank Lloyd Wright, Daniel Burnham, Louis Sullivan and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe all located here. Free shuttles will take Wright fans to the SC Johnson campus in Racine, Wisconsin, too.

The Art Institute of Chicago exhibits two Degas collections on loan with “Degas: At the Track, On the Stage” (through February) along with a much-talked-about collection from Charles Ray (“Charles Ray: Sculpture, 1997-2004”). As the first major exhibit for Chicago-born Ray, nineteen of his sculptures—from a smashed-up car to a fallen tree—are spread throughout the Modern Wing and the South Garden.

Recreation

606/Bloomingdale Trail

Mimicking New York City’s High Line, the Bloomingdale Trail—also referred to as the 606—transformed a former elevated rail line into green space. The 2.7-mile greenway, open since June, snakes through three Northwest Side neighborhoods: Logan Square, Humboldt Park and West Town. It also features murals and art installations.



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5 Reasons to Go to Greece Right Now http://ift.tt/1UY3lyF

Oia, Santorini

The word most commonly associated with Greece right now is "crisis." Yet while it's true the country is weathering unbelievably tough economic times, that's no reason for it to fall off your travel radar. Here’s another word to associate with Greece at the moment: "autumn," as in a great time to visit. The summer crowds are gone, the weather is still pleasant, and the deals are out in full force. September 27 also happens to be World Tourism Day, when admission to Greek state museums and archaeological sites is free. Here are a few more reasons to get to Greece this fall.

Unprecedented Value

Acropolis

During tough times, airlines, hotels and cruise lines are busting out the bargains in order to sustain one of Greece’s most bankable commodities: tourism. Round-trip airfares for the fall are as low as $650 from New York to Athens on Delta, for example. And every major cruise line from Azamara to Royal Caribbean is featuring fall sales that can’t be beat, most with rates that average under $200 per night, some at under $100. Even luxury liners like Sea Dream Yacht Club are going for almost 30% less if you take advantage of their “Book Today and Save” specials. The deals are numerous, so start by comparing prices at Cruise Critic. It’s also a great time to discover Greece’s newest hotels, such as the Hydrama Grand in Drama, a transformed tobacco warehouse, which debuts in October with introductory packages. And the recently “greenly” revamped Royal Marmin Bay in Crete is touting 20% discounts in October. In Athens, the iconic Hilton is offering a Cultural Weekend for Two Package, which includes two nights, buffet breakfast, spa access and two tickets to six museums for $335.

It’s Vinsanto Time

Vinsanto

As harvest time in leading wine regions such as Santorini wrap up in early September, the “drying season” for Vinsanto grapes takes place through mid- to late September. This is a crucial step in the process of the country’s distinctive dessert wine. Vinsanto, which translates to “holy wine,” is known for its deep orange/brown color, and big flavor notes of fig and honey. The wine is aged in oak barrels for a minimum of 24 months to gain its unique flavor. To say it is fortifying is an understatement—legend has it that laborers would drink it for breakfast to gain energy and sustenance for the day. Ask for it at any restaurant throughout Greece, or enjoy a tasting straight from a collective of producers at Santo Wines in Santorini.

New Archaeological Discoveries

Megalopolis Theater

The mild weather not only presents an opportune time to explore icons like the Acropolis and the Parthenon; excavators are constantly unearthing new treasures in Greece that are equally worth a visit. The latest is Amphipolis Tomb, near Levidi, Arcadia, which archaeologists believe may be the tomb of Alexander the Great. (As excavation is still in progress, access is limited). Another recent discovery is the ancient Megalopolis Theater in Arcadia, which dates back to the fourth century B.C. and is among the largest of the ancient Greek theaters.

Great Food

Selene

Good food never goes out of style in Greece, but during summer, many tourists are disappointed when many prominent restaurateurs close for vacation. Not so in the fall, when the food scene is brimming with the local harvest. Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city, is coming up as a gastronomic hub thanks to a crew of eager young chefs and new openings like Roots, a pioneering vegan restaurant. Yiorgos Hatziyannakis in Santorini is considered by many to be the father of modern Greek cooking; his restaurant Selene is currently celebrating its 30th anniversary, and is the best place to taste the fresh harvest of the volcanic island, from the local wines to fava to white eggplant. Funky Gourmet in Athens, which serves the country’s most innovative cuisine, such as sea urchin with “sea sponge,” received its second Michelin star last year. The lovely courtyard of Aleria provides the perfect setting on fall evenings for classic dishes like grilled octopus with fava-bean cream, tomato jam, salami, and basil sauce.

Fall Festivals

The island of Aegina celebrates their leading product—the pistachio—during Fistiki Fest (September 24–27), drawing 20,000 visitors with cooking demos, exhibits, tours, and entertainment. The season’s largest draw, however, is the annual Athens International Film Festival, going into its 21st year (September 23–October 4), showcasing over 180 films from around the world. 50,000 attendees are expected to enjoy this year’s theme: “Music and Film.”

A serial traveler who often lets a country’s cuisine dictate her itineraries, New York City-based writer Kathleen Squires has visited all 7 continents and over 60 countries, with stints living in London, Tokyo, and Buenos Aires. Her work also appears in The Wall Street Journal, Details, Saveur, Cooking Light and National Geographic Traveler.



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