A Traveler's Guide to Lisbon's Kiosks http://ift.tt/294FtTo

Visitors to Lisbon are usually quick to fall in love with the city’s ubiquitous quiosques de refresco, vintage-chic food and drinks kiosks that have become as much a part of the city’s drinking and dining scene as ginginha and pasteis de nata. Take a stroll through the city, and you’ll soon spot these ornate iron structures, whose unique style reflects Art Nouveau and Moorish influences and history dates back to the 19th century. More than an exercise in nostalgia, the strategically located kiosks have come to be an emblem of the city’s relaxed style of eating and drinking. Every local has their favorite, and a ‘kiosk-hop’ is a great way to eat and drink your way around the city’s tourist hotspots.

With prime positions in some of the city’s most scenic locations, and always surrounded by tables and chairs spread out across the esplanade, the kiosks are perfect for a mid-stroll pick-me-up, or an evening’s leisurely drinking and dining. Many serve the same quintessentially Portuguese cordial drinks that kept strolling Lisbonites refreshed in centuries past—the most famous of which is capilé (made with herb extracts including maidenhair and orange flower). If you want something with a little more kick, many kiosks now sell caipirinhas—the sugarcane rum and sugar cocktails that have become ubiquitous in the city and underscore Portugal’s strong connections with Brazil. 

Despite their vintage appearance, however, it’s only recently that these handsome and handily-located drinking and dining spots began to establish themselves as key components of Lisbon’s famously lively street life. Popular during the late 1860s, they had fallen out of fashion by the turn of the century, and were left abandoned until 2009, when local entrepreneur Catarina Portas, founder of retro-chic brand A Vida Portuguesa, hit upon the idea of harnessing the kiosks’ vintage charm. Their success sparked a trend that continues today. Fellow entrepreneurs revived dilapidated kiosks and opened new ones, and today the quiosques offer everything from traditional treats to sushi—there’s even a kiosk that claims to sell the “Best Chocolate Cake in the World.”

Visitors can nibble sushi outside the Basilica da Estrela  as they wait for the number 28 tram, cool down with caipirinhas in front of the River Tagus, or enjoy an ice cream as parakeets flit noisily through the trees at one of the city’s many leafy parks. Many have Wi-Fi connections, which might detract a little from the old-school vibe, but is certainly handy if you want to check the location of your next kiosk stop. Each of Lisbon’s kiosks has its own unique appeal, but here’s our pick of some of the best the city has to offer.

Quiosque Praça de São Paulo

One of Lisbon’s original kiosks, brought back into service in 2009, this ornate kiosk has a great location on the flagstones of one of downtown Lisbon’s most impressive plazas. With the handsome Igreja de Sao Paulo as a backdrop, this is a pretty spot to enjoy the traditional cordials such as capilé, or the red currant drink groselha.

Quiosque do Mercado da Ribeira

The best choice for families, this bright red kiosk next to the Mercado da Ribeira scores major kid-friendly points for the adjoining playground. The food is simple rather than sophisticated—think cheese sandwiches and pastries—but jugs of potent sangria and bowls of marinated olives will keep the grownups happy. Bonus points for providing overhead heaters and handing out blankets when the sun dips over the river and the breezes over the water make things chilly.

Quiosque de Refresco - Largo de Sé

Enjoying a plum position in front of Lisbon’s cathedral, this busy kiosk serves refreshing lemonade, ginginha, and port wine alongside traditional foodie treats such as queijada (sweet cream cheese tarts). The kiosk does a roaring trade thanks to its location in prime sightseeing territory, but it’s no tourist trap—the coffee and pastries are genuinely delicious.

Quiosque O Melhor Bolo de Chocolate do Mundo

Who wouldn’t want to visit a kiosk that claims to sell “the best chocolate cake in the world”? It’s a bold claim, but there’s no denying that the rich slabs served at this Avenida da Liberdade kiosk are delicious. Toasted sandwiches, juices, and sangria are also on the menu, as is a good Wi-Fi connection and occasional DJ sets during the summer.

Quiosque da Ribeira das Naus

This waterfront kiosk a short stroll from the Praça do Comércio has an expansive terrace, and it’s put to good use. During the warmer months, sightseers and Lisboetas alike gather here to catch some rays and watch the boats glide by as they sip a caipirinha, gin and tonic, or cold beer, while local musicians and DJs provide a musical backdrop. This is the kiosk to come to for that ‘I’m on vacation’ feeling. Nearby, the Ginginha do Carmo kiosk on the Praça do Comércio specializes in ginja (Portugal’s famous sour cherry liqueur), which can be sipped from a chocolate cup.

Quiosque do Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

There’s not one but two kiosks at this famous miradoura, which takes on something of a party vibe after dark during summer weekends when DJs take to the decks. It’s also a favorite spot for romantic couples to come and watch the dramatic sunset over the river. Temperatures tend to drop when the sun goes down, so wrap yourself in a blanket and sip a hot spiced wine to keep the chill at bay as you admire the view. 

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10 Reasons to Visit Brighton, U.K. http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

For a small city, Brighton packs a big personality. Londoners and other English travelers love escaping here for its pretty pebble beach; pier and seaside recreation; and special cultural and culinary appeal. But the rest of the world is slowly discovering that Brighton, and its adjacent city of Hove, make for an easygoing, easy-to-love waterfront hub that’s worth making time to visit. Plus, Brighton is a mere 50 minutes south by rail from London’s Victoria Station. —Kelsy Chauvin

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Art Lover's Guide to Washington, D.C. http://ift.tt/2956HKV

Washington, D.C., has its own style. Against a backdrop of classical giants like the National Gallery of Art, the nation’s capital boasts a fresh, dynamic, experiential scene that continues to morph and transform in exciting new ways. Here are some must-see artistic hot spots to keep an eye on.

The Hip: Roving Curatorial Programs

In a city of rising rents, the traditional brick-and-mortar display space is becoming an endangered species. One solution? Pop-up art shows that rove around the city. Keep an eye out for Quota and Wild Hand Workspace, and check Eventbrite for other possibilities. Other artsy scenes include Pleasant Plains Workshop, a self-proclaimed arts incubator that showcases the work of local artists; Hole in the Sky, a DIY space; District of Columbia Arts Center, devoted to helping fledgling artists gain a foothold; and Hillyer Art Space, a Dupont Circle art gallery that hosts First Fridays, a gallery crawl including live music and wine.

The Classic: D.C.’s Answers to the Frick Museum

There’s something special about viewing art in the intimacy of a home, and Washington offers three fabulous opportunities to do so. The Phillips Collection displays one man’s devotion to art in the rambling rooms of two connected mansions near Dupont Circle. The star of the show is Renoir’s famed “Luncheon of the Boating Party,” depicting jaunty young Parisians taking a break on a Seine island. When museum founder Duncan Phillips first laid eyes on the painting in a Parisian town house in 1924, it was not for sale. He offered $125,000 (a huge amount of money at the time) and walked away with it. People travel thousands of miles to the Phillips home to see the painting, which became the cornerstone of the nation’s first private art museum. There are many other stellar works in these homey rooms as well, including Jacob Lawrence’s magnificent series on the underground railroad and a room full of Rothkos. And the gallery keeps growing. Just recently, the Laib Wax Room was added, Wolfgang Laib’s masterful beeswax chamber lit with a single bulb.

Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens is a perennial favorite, set amid lush gardens in Northwest D.C. The onetime home of heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post, who was married to the Russian ambassador during the Russian Revolution, this lavish home showcases her stunning collection of Russian art—Fabergé eggs foremost among them. Post was also a connoisseur of French art, which is found sprinkled throughout as well. She knew the value of her collections and wanted to share them with the public, so she set up her house as an amazing museum before she died.

The Kreeger is tucked away in a residential neighborhood north of Georgetown. It features Impressionists and American artists from the 1850s to the 1970s. Insurance attorney David Kreeger and his wife, Carmen, purchased works for love, not investment, and were especially drawn to color and texture. So within the walls of their 24,000-square-foot, post-Mediterranean home (designed by Philip Johnson in 1963), you’ll find Picassos (13 of them), Cézannes, Mirós, van Goghs, a whole room of Monets, and more. The pre-blue-period Picasso, “At the Café de la Rotonde,” and an early Mondrian, a perfectly realistic windmill (“Oostzijdse Mill with Panoramic Sunset, Mill at Center”), are especially intriguing. The sculpture garden outside contains large-scale works by Henry Moore, Hans Arp, and more; picnicking is encouraged.

The Edgy: The Renwick Gallery

The Renwick Gallery, a branch of the Smithsonian American Art Museum, recently closed for two years, undergoing an extensive renovation that would mesmerize the art world. It reopened in November 2015 with a new motto: “Dedicated to the Future of Art.”  Nine American contemporary artists were commissioned to create site-specific, room-size, one-of-a-kind masterpieces such as Gabriel Dawe’s floor-to-ceiling rainbow made of 60 miles of polyester thread and Patrick Dohert’s architectural gathering of branches that he’s collected from around the world. That exhibit closes completely in July 2016, and new exhibits are in the works. This is one museum to watch for its audacious role in reinterpreting art.

The Historic: National Museum of Women in the Arts

Some may argue that men seem to get all the credit, at least in the early days of art. Women finally get their due at the National Museum of Women in the Arts, a glorious museum housed in a beautifully designed Masonic Temple that showcases centuries of women artists. You’ll find sublime masterpieces by some of America’s most talented women artists, including Frida Kahlo, Mary Cassatt, and Georgia O’Keeffe. But what’s unique about this museum is that it celebrates women artists who didn’t necessarily receive the accolades or fame they may have deserved in their day, including Lavinia Fontana (look for her “Portrait of a Noblewoman,” ca 1580), Rosa Bonheur (“Highland Raid,” 1860), and Justine Kurland (“Waterfall Mama Babies,” 2006). 

The Underrated: Dumbarton Oaks

Georgetown’s Gardens at Dumbarton Oaks are heralded for their year-round beauty, and rightly so—they were designed by famed landscape architect Beatrix Ferrand, after all. But few know that a unique, world-class collection of art is on display in the associated house, Dumbarton Oaks. The Blisses, who oversaw the creation of the garden, also devoted themselves to their artistic passions: Byzantine and pre-Columbian art. What mesmerized the Blisses were the intricate detail and fine craftsmanship of each object d’art—this is a museum that you need to get up close to each piece and truly appreciate. In the Byzantine collection you’ll find rare coins, cloisonné enamel, late Roman and Byzantine jewelry, and gold, silver, and bronze vessels used for celebration of the Eucharist. But it’s the pre-Columbian gallery that’s the true show-stopper. Housed in a circular, glass-and-travertine wing designed by Philip Johnson in 1959, you’ll find glistening displays filled with treasures from ancient Latin American cultures, including sparkling gold pectorals, ceremonial jewelry, and stone carvings of Aztec deities and animals. In-the-know researchers seek out Dumbarton from far and wide—it’s about time that locals, and visitors, do the same.

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7 French Wine Regions You Need to Visit http://ift.tt/2940Een

The trick in France is to drink locally. Visit a vineyard where there is a sign saying Dégustation Gratuit, which means you can taste for free, and if you like it, buy it. In all wine regions, there are wine shops selling en vrac, which means you take your own bottle and pour yourself some of the local wine from a big vat for $2 per litre or less. It’s perfect for a picnic lunch. Then there are the street markets, where you will almost always find a wine-maker selling his wine by the bottle or the box. You can often taste before you buy at the markets. Even in northern France, where local wines are very rare, markets should be your first stop. Then try the wine bars, and only then the supermarkets.

Although there are prized French vintages worth over $5,000, you can find a generic bottle of Bordeux in the French supermarkets for $2.50. The key to buying wine in France is understanding the price points. As a general rule, never pay more than $10 for an everyday table wine. For dinner with friends, wine in the $10–$18 range will do the trick, while for special occasions you can find a splendid bottle to bring home for just $25. 

Bordeaux

The proximity of the ocean and the temperate climate it brings (much like California) makes the wines of Bordeaux special. The long and low Médoc peninsula might not last this century due to rising sea levels, which would be a harsh blow to the very soul of France. Most Bordeaux wines are a blend of Merlot (for its velvety richness and depth) and Cabernet Sauvignon (for fruit and body). The top quality Grand Cru wines from the grand chateaus of the Médoc peninsula and from Pomerol and St Emilion are very expensive but some of the lesser known Margaux and St Julien wines can be had for under $30. Excellent red wines from Pessac-Léognan, Lalande de Pomerol, and Montagne de St Emilion can be had for as little as $20, as can good white wines from Graves and Côte de Blaye. The best sweet white wines of Sauternes are too costly for most pockets so instead drink the golden Monbazillac wine from the Bergerac at a fraction of the price—it goes just as well with foie gras and desserts.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor’s Bordeaux Guide

Burgundy

A great white Burgundy like a Corton Charlemagne or a red from the Hospices de Beaune can be some of the finest drinking you will ever know, but they are forbiddingly expensive. The vineyards run down the picturesque valley of the river Saône from Dijon in the north, where you find the Côte de Nuits (named for walnut trees) and below it the Beaune region, down to Macon where you find the gloriously velvety Pouilly Fuissé whites. They use almost exclusively Chardonnay for the white wines and Pinot Noir for the reds. You can get excellent less famous village wines like Volnay, St Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet for around $20. If you want to splash out, buy a bottle of the glorious red Pommard for around $40 and you will be rewarded by an experience and a memory to treasure.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor’s Burgundy Guide

Beaujolais

South of Burgundy comes the Beaujolais region, which suffers from the brilliant marketing of Beaujolais Nouveau every November. Each year, the wine is promoted as vin nouveau, but it really is too young to be worth drinking. The marketing campaign has given the region a flashy image which understates the real quality of the area’s Brouilly and Moulin à Vent wines which show just what pleasure the Gamay grape can bring.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor’s Beaujolais Guide

Rhône

The fertile vineyards that run south along the Rhône river from the city of Lyon to the Mediterranean produce hearty and full-bodied red wines (mainly from the Syrah grape) and meaty whites from Viognier grapes. The great whites of Hermitage must be made from Marsanne and Rousanne grapes, seldom found elsewhere. But in the southern Rhône regional rules allow a dizzying mix of different grapes to be included like Cinsault and Mourvèdre. Most of the Côtes du Rhône reds come from the Grenache grape and are cheap, sound, and decent value. Depending on the local terroir, they can be extraordinarily good like Chateauneuf du Pape ($20 and up), which Napoleon liked so much he ordered French army units to salute whenever they marched past the vineyard. A Gigondas (made primarily from the Grenache grape) or a Vacqueras (usually $12 and up) makes a decent substitute. A Vieux Télégraphe has a lovely toasty, almost peppery flavor from the stones that cover the vineyard and retain much of the sun’s heat. The rosé wines of Tavel are rather special. Known as the wine of kings, they are grown in a valley with its own micro-climate. The fortified wines of Beaumes-de-Venise have a huge following in France.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor’s Lyon and the Alps Guide

Loire

The crisp and flinty white Muscadet wines of the Loire valley are made to accompany seafood. I prefer the ones made sur lie, which means the wines are allowed to stay on the lees, the dead yeast cells left over after fermentation, and absorb more flavor and complexity. Fairly far north, the vineyards were devastated by a prolonged freeze in 1709 and the “Sun-King,” Louis XIV, ordered them replanted with the Melon de Bourgogne grape which thrived. Further upstream towards Orleans come the Sancerre vineyards of Sauvignon Blanc grapes, making a slightly tart but elegant white wine. Across the river are the celebrated Pouilly Fumé vineyards. The wines are all shaped by a distinctive terroir, a great belt of chalk that stretches from the Chablis region of Burgundy west through the Loire and all the way north to the Champagne region around Reims and to the white cliffs of Dover across the Channel in England.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor’s Loire Valley Guide

Alsace

Bordering Germany, Alsace produces very good white wines that are the French equivalent of German Rieslings. Sylvaner and Gewurtztraminer flourish this far north and on the often dramatically steep hillsides that flank the rivers. The French wines tend to be fully fermented and thus a little drier than the German counterparts. Drinking a glass of cool Riesling in the May sunshine while eating fresh white asparagus with Hollandaise sauce, new potatoes, and some local ham is a delightful experience.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor’s Alsace-Lorraine Guide

Bergerac

I’m lucky I live in the Perigord region of south-western France—the gastronomic heartland that produces the black truffles and foie gras the French adore. The region is also home to the delightful wines of Bergerac, which are not well-known outside France because they are rarely exported. The Bergerac Sec white wines are fresh, flowery, and refreshing, and offer an extraordinary bargain at $5–$8 a bottle. Pierre Desmartis of Chateau de la Vieille Bergerie has won three successive gold medals in Paris for his white wines and I defy anyone to find a better wine at his price (around $10).

For red wines, I’m spoiled for choice in the Bergerac. I love the lordly Pécharmant wines of Chateau de Tiregand ($–$20, depending on the year), which in blind tastings often beat snooty Bordeaux wines costing three times as much. For less than $10 I can enjoy the luscious, chewy Bergerac red of Christian Roche at La Vieille Cure or Daniel Hecquet’s Chateau Puy-Servain from the Montravel district. And if I want a California-style fruit bomb that explodes with taste, I buy a Chateau de la Jaubertie, cuvée Mirabelle, for around $15.

Bergerac is remarkable for the large and growing proportion of its vineyards that are organic and bio-dynamic and for the large proportion of women winemakers—several of them migrants from elsewhere. From England, Patricia Atkinson’s Clos d’Yvigne is the best known, but the Chateau K of Katarina Mowinckel (from Norway) makes fine wine, and Caro Feely (from Ireland) of Terroir Feely makes terrific wine and does lunches, wine tours, and rents out cottages in the vineyard. I enjoy her red and white wines a great deal.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor's Bergerac Guide

These days, however, my usual red wine is my own Cuvée Bruno, named for the fictional hero of my crime novels which are set in the region. With my friends at the Julien de Savignac vineyards I selected the grapes and spent many happy hours tasting and choosing the blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc before we put the wine into oak barrels for six months. It is around $8 a bottle from JuliendeSavignac@wanadoo.fr.

Martin Walker, author of the “Bruno” series of mystery novels is also a Grand Consul de la Vinée de Bergerac, a body founded in the year 1254 AD to uphold the quality of the region’s wines, and chairs the jury for the Prix Ragueneau cookery prize.

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San Francisco's Best Gin Bars http://ift.tt/28Zlz1f

San Francisco has always been a gin-drinking town, going back to pre-Prohibition days. Today, it’s gin’s time to shine with more gin bars than ever. The heritage continues both in the quantity and quality of local distilleries producing gin and the increase in gin cocktails seen on restaurant and bar menus. Here are six of the best places to enjoy gin in San Francisco.

Whitechapel

Whitechapel is easily the most gin-focused bar in San Francisco. The bar carries more than 400 different gins, with new ones being added all the time. There are 105 new and classic gin cocktails on the menu, including a draught gin and tonic. The list includes vintage gins going back to the 1920s. The bar’s interior is reminiscent of a British Victorian gin palace mixed with a vintage London tube station. There’s even a gin club “The Polk Street Irregulars” to help guests on their gin journey with invitations to special events, educational programs, and a way to record their gin drinks to earn perks. The bar offers food, including a 36-ounce dry-aged Tomahawk steak for two, a lavish cheese plate, hand pies, and various pub snacks.

Cockscomb

Cockscomb is a restaurant from Chris Cosentino, a chef well known for his love of less common cuts of meat and offal. There are currently 92 gins of varying styles on the menu as well as cocktails that can certainly get you in the mood for delving into bold dishes like beef heart tartare; braised lamb shoulder Parisian, with anchovies, red onion, and mint; or pig skin carbonara. Gin balances the flavor from of all the herbs, and the soothing botanicals make cocktails sing with the food. When in doubt, a gin and tonic pairs nicely with oysters.

Aatxe

Spain has gone crazy for the gin and tonic, or “gintonic” as the Spaniards call it, so it’s no wonder that Aatxe, a bar and restaurant that focuses on regional Spanish cuisine with Basque influence would have a gin and tonic menu. They also have other gin cocktails with Spanish ingredients or that tie in to Spanish flavors such as the Artza Wakes Up—with Tanqueray, Averna, almond, cara cara orange, and absinthe. The bar has 85 gins, including Spanish and local brands as well as the classics. To help guests navigate the choices, a chart divides the gins into categories like floral, fruity, big guys, and herbal and offers suggestions for which tonic to pair with them. After your gin and tonic, you can delve into pintxos and tapas like duck and leek toast, croqueta de jamon, gambas al ajillo, and patatas bravas.

Coqueta

Coqueta is a Spanish restaurant with a menu that embodies the spirit of “gintonic.” The bar currently has more than 80 gins, and five tonics from a small town near Cadiz in Andalusia called Indi & Co., along with other housemade flavored tonics to showcase the variety and possibility of the popular Spanish drink. The drinks complement a menu of hot and cold tapas, wood-grilled dishes, and paellas, as well as open-face sandwiches and bite-sized skewers.

Dosa

Dosa is a modern South Indian–inspired restaurant with a California sensibility. Since gin is closely identified with Britain and India, there is a deep connection of the botanicals in gin and the flavors of Indian cuisine. Gin also serves as an excellent precursor to an Indian meal. Dosa has 42 gins on the menu; one of their most popular pairings is the Taco Frankie (spicy South Indian–style vindaloo duck tacos) paired with their house gin and tonic.

The Interval

Although The Interval isn’t necessarily considered a gin bar, it is focused on cocktail history and offers some interesting options for gin lovers and cocktail explorers. The bar carries about 15 different gins and works with a local distiller to create their own custom gin, flavored with juniper berries along with coriander, cedar tips, lemon, and orange. The gin is a membership reward, and members keep it in flasks mounted on the ceiling in a checkerboard-like design. The custom gin is also available in a tasting flight for nonmembers. The bar uses tonic syrup made from Small Hand Foods in the draught gin and tonic. A recommended cocktail and a bartender’s favorite is the Navy Gimlet, made from high-proof gin and lime cordial, served ice cold.

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America's Best 4th of July Fireworks Displays http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Flashes of red, white, and blue fill the skies every July, when cities from coast to coast pull out all the stops to celebrate our nation’s independence with dazzling fireworks displays. Though it might seem like a modern development, the origin of fireworks on the 4th of July actually dates back to 1777, when Philadelphia commemorated the one-year anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence with a parade, live music, and, you guessed it, fireworks. More than 200 years later, the Independence Day tradition is alive and well, with pyrotechnic shows that get bigger and better every year thanks to awe-inspiring technological advances. From Seattle to Miami, we’re showing you where to see America’s most epic fireworks this year.—Zachary Laks

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10 Budget Cruises for Summer 2016 http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Summertime cruise bargains—with passage available for as little as $68 per person per night—are tough to pass up. From June through August, major cruise lines are offering a plethora of low-cost sailings to Bermuda, the Bahamas, the Caribbean, and Mexico. While many sailings are aboard older, recently refurbished ships, you’ll also find some surprising discounts for itineraries aboard Norwegian Escape and Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas—two new and sought-after megaships with all the latest amenities. Alternatively, you could go in an entirely different direction and give Fathom Adonia and its voluntourism itineraries to the Dominican Republic a try.—Andrea M. Rotondo

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Long Weekend in Bordeaux, France http://www.fodors.com/ee/images/article/Place-de-la-Bourse-at-night-Credit-Thomas-Sanson.jpg

Known for centuries as one of France’s preeminent wine regions and home to the famed Saint Emilion and Pomerol wine trails, the polished city of Bordeaux along the Garonne River is undergoing a sweeping transformation with hip new wine bars and buzzing music venues. Here’s how to best experience this UNESCO World Heritage city in just a few days.

Friday

Step on the TGV train in Paris Montparnasse, speed through countless vineyards ripening in the morning sun, and arrive precisely 3 hours and 16 minutes later at Bordeaux St. Jean. Grab your bags, climb in a taxi, and head north along the Garonne River to the Chartrons district, filled with trendy waterfront shops and bustling cafés that were once home to wealthy wine merchants. Here you’ll check into Seeko’o, a chic concept hotel boasting a sleek, asymmetrical façade meant to resemble an iceberg. If your budget allows, stay in the Panoramic Suite, with unprecedented views of the 384-foot Jacques Chaban Delmas drawbridge.

Next, walk 15 minutes to the Les Hangars (Médoc) river shuttle stop. Catch a ferry and gaze at the verdant beauty of the Parc aux Angéliques before hopping off at the Quinconces (Jean Jaurès) stop. Another eight minutes’ walk will take you to the 18th-century Grand Théâtre, with its frescoed, domed ceiling, to hear the Opéra National de Bordeaux perform a special 45-minute lunchtime concert featuring rotating excerpts of works by famed composers.

A leisurely 20-minute riverside walk past the famed 18th-century Place de la Bourse fronted by the stunning Water Mirror—the world’s largest reflecting pool—will take you to La Tupina. This charming lunch spot, where meat is grilled over open flames and an oversize cauldron emits savory aromas, is known for its local sturgeon and lamprey, both freshly pulled from the neighboring river every morning.

After lunch, head back downriver to the Bacalan district. What was once a gritty, working-class neighborhood has transformed into a world-class wine lover’s destination. After two and a half years of construction, La Cité du Vin opened in June 2016. This high-tech museum filled with multimedia, multisensory exhibits dedicated to the area’s ubiquitous beverage has given Bordeaux’s skyline a whole new look. The massive, futuristic glass façade is meant to resemble two phases of the grape: when it’s on the vine, and when it is wine swirling in a long-stemmed glass.  Don’t forget to take a wine-tasting workshop or visit the huge wine cellar that houses almost 10,000 bottles. When the sun begins to set, head upstairs to the seventh floor, where the polished Le 7 Restaurant treats diners to panoramic views of the river alongisde dishes made from seasonal, regional produce and a 500-bottle wine list with vintages from 50 countries.

Wrap up your evening across the river with live music at Le Caillou, featuring concerts on an outdoor stage overlooking the botanical garden.

Saturday

Grab a flaky croissant from one of the many vendors at Les Capucins Market (Place des Capucins). After a massive renovation project was completed in 2009, this buzzing covered market boasts stall after stall of local produce, seafood, cheese, and baked goods.

Next, it’s time to take a day trip to the quaint medieval village of Saint-Émilion, where grabbing a famed macaron from Ferlion Macarons is imperative. The sweet cookie was made here by Ursuline nuns beginning in 1620, and this bakery claims to be the sole custodian of the secret 17th-century recipe.

A visit to one of Saint-Émilion’s famed châteaux is in order, and it’s a mere six-minute drive to Château La Dominique. Juxtaposed against the original, 18th century château is the red, iridescent cellar designed by renowned French architect Jean Nouvel. Atop the space-age structure is a panoramic terrace, along with the brasserie-style restaurant aptly named La Terrase Rouge. Sit family-style as you indulge in a lunch of southwestern French comfort food—think fillet of beef with fresh asparagus—and sip the fruity-yet-spicy house wines.

So far you’ve learned about wine and tasted wine, and now it’s time to bathe in wine—sort of. The opulent Grand Barrail Château Hotel and Spa has tranquil treatment rooms featuring whirlpool tubs and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the area’s prized vineyards. Melt away stress in the hydro massage bath of grape juice, followed by an anti-stress massage with grapeseed oil.

Finish the day learning how to concoct regional Bordelaise specialties with a cooking class at Château Ambe Tour Pourret (D243, 33330 Saint-Émilion, 33/5 57 55 23 28). After you’ve chopped, peeled, and grilled to the satisfaction of the chef, enjoy the fruits of your labor with carefully paired wines from the château’s cellar.

Sunday

Wake up at your leisure and make your way to the stylish, Philippe Starck–designed hotel Mama Shelter, where indulging in the all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch buffet is a must before hitting the pavement. There are 11,700 VCub bikes available at  the city’s 167 pick-up points—don’t forget to download the VCub Facile app on your smartphone for a self-service bike rental. Once you have your own set of wheels, enjoy a leisurely ride along the river before making your way to the Bordeaux Wine School where your wine education continues with a two-hour introductory course on Bordeaux wines.

Return your bike before you meander along the Urban Wine Trail, where you’ll walk along cobbled streets and through lively squares to visit a selection of the best city wine bars to sample glasses from the region accompanied by perfectly paired snacks. Change for dinner before heading to elegant, Michelin-starred Le Pavillon des Boulevards to feast on lovingly created plates garnished with French delicacies such as foie gras or truffles.

Where to Stay

The sumptuous, centrally located Intercontinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hotel has an imposing neoclassical façade and a Gordon Ramsay restaurant. Also downtown are trendy Mama Shelter Bordeaux and quirky, affordable Hotel du Theatre. Contemporary picks Seeko’o and Vatel Hotel are in the historic Chartrons district near the new Cité du Vin, and if you’d like to overnight among the vineyards, head to the Grand Barrail Château Hotel and Spa in Saint-Émilion.

When to Go

Temperatures in this part of France rarely go below 40 degrees in the winter or above 80 in the summer, making any season ideal for a visit. If you’d like to be around when the vineyards are harvested by hand, plan your trip in mid-October.

Getting There

American and Iberia fly to Bordeaux-Merignac Airport from New York with a stop in Madrid, while most carriers leaving from the West Coast stopover in Charles de Gaulle Airport. In early 2017, a new LGV high-speed rail link promises to travel between Paris and Bordeaux in slightly over two hours.

Plan Your Trip: Visit Fodor's Bordeaux Guide

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10 Best U.S. Airports to Get Stuck In http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

They say it is the journey that matters and not the destination, but even the most Zen of travelers can struggle to appreciate the part of the journey that involves never-ending security lines, delayed flights, and dreaded layover limbo—where you are not here but not yet there, either. Fortunately, more and more airports are understanding that the layover experience doesn’t have to feel like passenger purgatory and they are upping their amenities accordingly. Shopping, plentiful food options, art, free Wi-Fi (yay!), and relaxing amenities all make for an easier and, dare we say it, more enjoyable way to pass time between flights. Here are 10 of our favorite domestic airports with offerings to help you appreciate the journey—however prolonged it may be!—on the way to your destination.—Emily Wasserman

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Neighborhood Guide: Junction, Toronto http://ift.tt/28WEOHV

Toronto’s Junction, so named for the nearby intersection of four railway lines, is the site of a colorful and contentious history. Previously an independent city called West Toronto, it was annexed by the city in 1909, but not before its working-class residents had voted to put an alcohol ban in place in 1904 to end whiskey-fueled brawls and raucous public drunkenness. The ban lasted until 2000, and in the years since, the Junction has gone through a nightlife and cultural renaissance, trading in abandoned storefronts for reclaimed furniture shops, design stores, and craft breweries, along with an annual summer solstice festival drawing people to its streets with local vendors and family entertainment. Here’s our guide to what to do and see in the Junction, Toronto’s hippest neighborhood.

Where to listen to music

Music venues have been instrumental in the revitalization of the Junction. In 2008, the Junction City Music Hall opened, entertaining crowds with local underground acts (literally) along with pinball and vintage arcade games in a dive bar atmosphere. Just down the street, The Hole in the Wall is a cozy and narrow gastropub (think: calamari and buffalo duck confit wings) with the occasional live act. Axis Gallery and Grill is the spot for brunch and live music on the weekends, with an airy street patio and downstairs lounge, and La Revolution is the Mexican food go-to, with jazz on the weekends and select weeknights. Tying the scene together is 3030 Dundas West, a massive bar and restaurant that serves as a hub of activity with a music stage, trivia nights, food market, a full cocktail menu, and 16 taps serving Ontario craft beers.

Where to drink

One of the first plans of action when exploring a neighborhood that was dry for almost a century is finding somewhere to drink. After the ban was lifted, the Junction made quick work of bringing in a distillery and two breweries.  Junction Craft Brewing, which opened in 2011,  has set up a tap room and retail shop where patrons can sample beers—including their signature “hopbacked” Conductor’s Craft Ale—in 5 and 10 oz sizes, buy tallboys, and fill up growlers. Indie Ale House makes a selection of unique craft ales with playful names like the “Shotgun Wedding” and “Cockpuncher” and pairs them with upscale pub food in their adjoining restaurant that serves yellowfin tuna tacos, a bison and pork belly burger, and a crispy Southern fried chicken that easily feeds two. For a learning experience, go on a tour at the Toronto Distillery Co., which in 2013 became the first new distillery in Toronto since Prohibition. They specialize in organic gin, single-grain whiskey, Applejack, and if you’re feeling adventurous, the earthy Beet Spirit, distilled from fermented sugar beets.

Where to get groomed

One of the more unique offerings in the Junction, Rod, Gun, and Barbers is a barbershop and bar modeled after a traditional Rod and Gun Club. Not only can clients in this lounge have a glass of bourbon in between a shave and a haircut, but it’s also a great spot to watch sports, play darts, or just have a beer. On Friday and Saturday nights, there’s even live music. To complete your look, Gerhard Supply is a one-stop-shop for curated menswear and grooming products.

Where to find vegan food

It’s a whole new world out in the Junction, and that extends to food and produce, with sugar free, gluten-free, and vegan-friendly options. In addition to its vegetarian and meat menu, The Beet Organic Café serves inventive vegan dishes, while The Sweet Potato natural grocery store serves prepared foods for people on the go. But the belle of the plant-based ball is Bunners Bakeshop: a 100% vegan and gluten-free bakery selling both sweet and savory items. Try a cupcake or a veggie pot pie and see if you can tell the difference, and pick up their popular cookbook for recipes to try at home.

Where to find meat and cheese

Sometimes you just want meat and dairy, and for that the Junction has you covered as well. Junction Fromagerie serves all artisanal Canadian cheeses, allowing you to explore the country through your palate. You can find dessert at Delight, a chocolate shop with homemade ice cream that serves organic fair-trade treats. For your carnivorous leanings, the family-run Gourmeats Butcher Shop sources all the meat locally. They also sell house-made chutneys and hot sauces to pair with your choices.

Where to shop

No visit is complete without picking up some souvenirs, and the Junction is rife with unique options. Articulations is a locally run art supply store that also sells stationery and hosts a gallery with rotating exhibits. Design lovers will want to stop by the modern Mjölk, a gallery and store with works by artisans from Scandinavia and Japan, focusing on functionality and craftsmanship. Need a natural salve or organic tea? Try apothecary Helen + Hildegard for all sustainably responsible suppliers, while those looking for military-influenced unisex fashions will find something different at Latre.  While you may not be able to take the furniture home, the 4,300-square-foot Smash is worth a visit for its one-of-a-kind vintage and salvaged pieces. 

Where to eat pizza

If you’re a pizza fan, you’re visited the right place. In the Junction, Vesuvio Pizzeria and Spaghetti House is the first and oldest pizzeria and spaghetti house in Toronto, and still family owned. Originally opened in 1957, and open in their current location since 1962, the restaurant’s specialty is New York–style pizza. And as it is nearly impossible to have pizza without beer or pasta without red wine, Vesuvio was instrumental in overturning the prohibition, spearheading the cause of local businesses that would benefit from the sale of alcohol.  

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San Francisco's Best Bakeries http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

San Francisco has long been famous for its sourdough bread, but in the past few years, the city's more innovative and eclectic bakeries have stolen the spotlight. Many of these bakeries have become destinations in their own right for carb-loving locals and visitors alike. Here's our list of of the best places to find everything from avocado toast to kouign-amann in the city by the bay.—Emily Wasserman & Amy Sherman

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Where to Find the Best Ice Cream in Connecticut http://ift.tt/28ODs0Y

Like lobster, hamburgers, and watermelon, ice cream is a quintessential part of summer. Instead of driving to the coast to find ice cream by the beach, head inland to Connecticut to discover a handful of family-run farms specializing in handmade ice creams. Whether you prefer fruity indulgences or nutty praline treats, you’re sure to satisfy your sweet tooth in Connecticut. All of these ice cream stops are worth the drive and you won’t be able to find ice cream this fresh anywhere else.

Buttonwood Farms

Griswold, CT

Starting in 1975 as a dairy farm,  Buttonwood Farms began making fresh ice cream in 1997. With fresh ice-cream cones and premium ingredients like Maine blueberries, Buttonwood Farms concocts the best ice cream in the area with flavors like Frozen Pudding, Jungle George (made with banana), and almond coconut.

Rich Farm

Oxford, CT

Rich Farm is worthy of a culinary pilgrimage for any New Yorker. One bite of the sweet churned ice cream in a waffle cone, and you’ll understand why there are 50-plus cars waiting outside the green pastures of Oxford, Connecticut, on any summer weekend. There are around 30 flavors made in small batches, ensuring the creamy texture is just right. Be sure to look out for specialty flavors like Cappuccino Craze,Manny’s Banana, Chunky Peanut Butter, Funfetti, and seasonal favorites on a rotating menu. There are soda floats, ice-cream sandwiches, and custom-made sundaes that can be savored right on the 100-acre dairy farm.

Arethusa Farms

Bantam, CT

A combination of Jersey, Holstein, and Brown Swiss dairy cows puts Arethusa Farms ahead of any regular ice-cream shop. The Arethusa Dairy farm spans more than 200 acres of grassland with over 350 award-winning cows famous for their full-cream milk. Arethusa farms has slowly expanded from a farm to a restaurant with the opening of Al Tavolo, which opened in 2013 and serves brasserie-inspired dishes.

Wells Hollow Creamery

Shelton, CT

Family-owned for five generations, Wells Hollow Creamery continues to draw crowds and cause traffic congestion in the tiny town of Shelton. Wells Hollow Farm is located just off the highway, making it convenient for those hankering for some ice cream on long drives. There are 40 different flavors to choose from, including Vermont Maple Butter, Tennessee Toffee, and Cow Tippin’, a local favorite made of vanilla ice cream with caramel and chocolate-covered caramel cows.

Insider tip: Bring a cooler and don’t leave without taking home one of the famouse ice-cream cakes.   

Robb’s Farm

Glastonbury, CT

With more than 30 flavors to choose from at Robb’s Farm, it’s hard to eat just one scoop. Creamy, dreamy, and totally addictive ice cream on a fourth-generation family farm with over 110 years of history is reason enough to visit. Flavors like cappuccino fudge crunch, Purple Calf (black raspberry ice cream with chocolate chips and cookie dough), and the Grand Slam (vanilla ice cream with caramel, fudge, chocolate chips, and chocolate-covered peanuts) are all best-sellers. Once the sugar high kicks in, kids can play with the pigs, donkeys, and llamas on the property. 

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8 Reasons to Go on a World Cruise http://ift.tt/28WLGlS

Novelist Jude Deveraux has had more than 40 books on the New York Times bestseller list. Each year, she embarks on a world cruise to get inspired and find the time to write her next novel. Here, we’ve rounded up Jude’s favorite reasons for taking a world cruise—maybe you’ll get inspired too.

Travel Without Stress

When I travel alone or with a companion, I always get stuck with the planning.  Hotels, cars, meals—all those reservations take weeks.  But the cruise ship does it for me.  I just show up when and where.

Take a Digital Detox

We get a break from the high-tech world.  It’s lovely to have no idea what day of the week it is.  And a cell phone doesn’t rule your life!

Have a Conversation

I’ve met some of the most interesting people on the cruises.  When I ask, “What did you do?” the answer often startles me.  Hearing of their fascinating careers and life struggles has put thousands of ideas into my mind. They’ve spent their lives working, and now they want to see and learn.  I find their joy of life contagious.

Get Moving

Let’s face it, writers aren’t usually athletes; we sit an extraordinary amount.  On the ship, you walk up and down stairs, through corridors.  Off the ship, exploring new places means plenty of exercise.

Forget About Chores 

On a ship I don’t have to cook, do laundry, make my bed.  It is glorious!  Food is everywhere and served by smiling people.  A true fantasy.

Learn Something New

Ever wonder what famous people do after they retire?  They often give talks on cruise ships.  I’ve seen astronauts, historians, stuntwomen, and entertainers all give fabulously interesting talks about what they’ve seen and heard.

Make Friends

A world cruise isn’t just a short vacation to some islands.  Four months on a boat together means bonding, making friends, and establishing lasting relationships. 

Pursue Your Passion 

On the days when we don’t dock, the beautiful ship plows through the water, giving me time to do what I love: write. Freed from having to deal with food and chores, I write a lot. I’ve written 106,000 words on one cruise, and 85,000 on another—plus I plotted three future novels.

Get Inspired

 The question writers are most often asked is, “Where do you get your ideas?”  The honest answer is, “I have no idea.”  But actually, we look for them.  We listen and observe. There’s nothing like four months of laughter, movement, and exotic sights to put new energy into a writer’s mind.

Jude Deveraux is the author of forty-three New York Times bestsellers. Her most recent novel is The Girl from Summer Hill. 

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Where To Eat In New York City This Summer http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

In New York, the return of warm, sunny days means a new crop of restaurants and a premium on outdoor seating. This season’s stylish highlights feature a range of cuisines from tapas to southern Italian and splashy debuts from ambitious chefs and seasoned restaurateurs. From hip Brooklyn neighborhoods to the island of Manhattan, stay cool with our favorite newcomers on the New York dining scene.—Kate Donnelly

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10 Things NOT To Do In Costa Rica http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Costa Rica is one of Central America’s most popular destinations—and for good reason. With so much to see and do in this spectacular country, it’s important to make the most of your trip. To help guide you to make the best decisions, we give you 10 things NOT to do in Costa Rica to ensure a great vacation.—Jeffrey Van Fleet

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7 Can't-Miss Restaurants in Charleston http://ift.tt/28LZoGP

Twenty years ago, five fine-dining restaurants constituted Charleston’s foodie scene, with not much else going on in its culinary world. But all that has changed. Charleston has exploded as an enticing food destination, with innovative preparation of local ingredients like shrimp, wreck fish, okra, and Carolina Gold rice. The city is a fertile breeding ground for culinary experimentation, with its diverse cultural roots and year-round bounty of produce, seafood, and meat. The result? An amazing food scene that has taken Charleston to new heights. Following in the footsteps of the highly-praised Husk, where James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock only uses regional ingredients in his ambitious menu, here are seven super innovative restaurants to experience for yourself.

Hominy Grill

Two decades ago, chef/owner Robert Stehling noted that the best Southern dishes were only available in people’s homes. So he opened a restaurant where he cured his own ham and bought only from local producers. Hewon a James Beard Award in 2008 for his principled, dedicated take on down-home Lowcountry cooking. The restaurant is not fussy or elegant, with its farmhouse décor and pressed-tin ceiling, and that’s one of the beloved things about it. Despite its accolades and national attention, it remains a neighborhood eatery, where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served six days a week. But this is no common lunch counter. Tuck into such signature dishes as the Charleston Nasty—fried chicken breast on a biscuit drenched in sawmill gravy—and you’ll see why.

Edmund’s Oast

An unexpected, delightful marriage between culinary haven and brewpub, Edmund’s Oast combines innovative bar food with the best of beer. Chef Reid Henninger is always inventing something new, like pickled Lowcountry shrimp served on rye bread with aioli; and beef tartare with asher blue, black olives, egg yolk, and charred toast. Keep in mind the menu changes often—one reason people keep coming back. The fresh and cured charcuterie plates are a local favorite as well. And the beer? Edmund’s Oast is a repository of rare and impressive varieties, including half a dozen brewed on site. The setting is an Old World farmhouse on the edge of town, with plenty of place to park. This is one place you’ll want to stay awhile.

Poogan's Smokehouse

With a rustic ambiance and smoky aroma, Poogan’s seems like a typical barbecue joint. But this newer establishment is far from ordinary. Executive chef Daniel Doyle’s background is both backyard barbecuing and semi-fine dining. His quest? What he calls chef-driven barbecue—great slow-cooked meats with sumptuous sides. Take the pork and beans, for example, a powerful concoction of hickory-smoked pork belly, sorghum-glazed black-eyed peas, hot chilies, Dr. Pepper, and chocolate. Or the baby kale salad with black-eyed peas, crispy country ham, wild mushrooms, and a Dijon sherry vinaigrette.  But perhaps the most eye-opening thing on the menu is the whole suckling pig, 48-hour advance notice required. Bring your appetite.

Cru Café

Gourmet Southern comfort food is celebrated at this cute little eatery on Pinkney Street, near the Charleston City Market. The offspring of Cru Catering, it opened in 2002 in response to public pressure—people couldn’t get enough of Cordon Bleu–trained chef John Zucker’s up-to-the-minute, artsy takes on fresh local ingredients (cru means raw in French). Their most popular dish? That’s a hard one, but probably the Thai seafood risotto. But there’s also the four-cheese macaroni, shrimp BLT, Chinese chicken salad, and poblano and mozzarella fried chicken. And don’t miss the fried green tomatoes with pork belly croutons. The restaurant occupies a cottage-style house, where rustic tables are set up in the living spaces and on the sultry porch, with a small bar overlooking the open kitchen.

The Macintosh

Low lighting, exposed-brick walls, and an industrial but warm space in a historic 1881 building set the neighborhood feel for chef Jeremiah Bacon’s skillful, creative menu exploring local ingredients. You’ll find classic American fare, including a $10 burger that’s a local favorite (8 ounces of house-ground beef with aged cheddar, Nueske’s bacon, and pecorino truffle fries). The bone marrow bread pudding is a signature dish, and diners also enjoy the deckle—a rarely used, highly marbled, tasty piece of rib eye. No wonder the Macintosh has been declared one of the country’s best new restaurants. Locals love the happy hour, featuring $5 plates (chicken dumplings and lettuce wraps) and $5 specialty cocktails.

Charleston Grill

Sometimes all you want is an elegant, candlelit meal, and Charleston Grill delivers that to perfection. One of Charleston’s original fine-dining mainstays, this grande dame has managed to uphold its world-class culinary excellence through the years. The secret? Executive chef Michelle Weaver is constantly looking for new ways to prepare New South cuisine, relying on global influences as well as local tradition. For example, try her fresh local snapper served in a Thai broth infused with lemongrass and chilies, topped with Lowcountry cherry tomatoes. Or her French-inspired foie gras paired with her mother’s Southern fried apple hand pie. The menu is divided into four categories: Simple, Lush, Cosmopolitan, and Southern; sample them all with the nightly tasting menu. The dining room exudes understated elegance, with wood-paneled walls, softly padded carver chairs, and local art. A jazz ensemble adds to the mood.  

Cypress

At this stylish restaurant on East Bay, executive chef Craig Deihl cooks globally inspired cuisine with the best Southern ingredients. With a wood-burning grill, he transforms local meats and seafood into signature dishes like smoked pork chop with Spanish chorizo, Edisto Plantation peas, collard greens, and pork rinds; and scallops and bacon with cauliflower purée, greens, corn chow-chow, and basil pesto. Whatever you do, be sure to order the Motherboard, overflowing with the restaurant’s tasty house-cured meats and charcuterie (Deihl’s specialty). Insider tip: Monday is $5 burger night at the upstairs bar, perhaps the best deal in town.

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10 Best National Parks to Visit In Summer http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

With the centennial of the National Parks service this summer, 2016 is the year to stay local and explore America. In the summer, national parks provide the ultimate escape to the most beautiful and geologically unique places in the nation. There’s something for everyone—whether you’re looking to take in the scenery, camp in the wilderness, or learn about nature through expert-led programs ranging from stargazing to wildlife biology. If your summer schedule permits, plan a trip for August 25 to 28 when park entrance fees are waived all day in honor of Founder’s Day, the National Park Service’s birthday. Not sure which one to visit? We’ve handpicked the 10 best national parks to visit in summer.—Jayme Moye

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Long Weekend in Portland, Oregon http://ift.tt/1WSHKI6

With gorgeous urban green spaces, easy access to nature, pedestrian-friendly streets, and a culinary scene that rivals those of major international cities, Portland, Oregon is a perfect place to shop, hike, and eat your way through a long weekend.

FRIDAY

Although Portland has many monikers (Stumptown, Puddletown, and Bridgetown, to name a few), it’s officially nicknamed the "City of Roses," and the local climate and soil is ideal for cultivating the prized perennial. It’s therefore only appropriate to start your visit at the International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park, on the edge of downtown. This century-old garden is home to thousands of rose bushes representing 500-plus varieties. It’s also one of the best places to take panoramic city shots, with views out over downtown Portland and snow-capped Mount Hood in the background.

Just uphill from the rose garden, the Portland Japanese Garden has been considered one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan. Renovated in 2016, this tranquil spot is full of lovely koi ponds, exquisitely manicured footpaths, and a beautiful array of plant life, ranging from quintessentially Japanese cherry trees to colorful maples.

After visiting the park, it’s a 10-minute drive or taxi ride downtown to Departure, a trendy restaurant-lounge at the top of The Nines Hotel. Catch the sunset with an aperitif at the adjacent terrace, or head straight inside to sample the varied dim sum menu, which includes plenty of vegan and gluten-free options.

Wind down your evening at the waterfront Kimpton RiverPlace Hotel, where you’ll be spending your first night in Portland. If you’re an early riser, request an east-facing room so you can catch the sunrise over the Willamette River.

SATURDAY

After a light breakfast at the Kimpton's Three Degrees restaurant, leave your bags at the front desk and walk north through Waterfront Park to the bohemian Portland Saturday Market, an open-air collection of vendors from around the region selling everything from fire-glazed pottery to tie-dye to handmade children's toys. From here, it's a 10-minute walk east up to the Pearl District, a former industrial area that was revamped in the 1990s and is now known for its numerous boutiques and art galleries—the Annie Meyer Gallery and the nearby Gallery 903 are particularly noteworthy. Next, head to the landmark Powell’s City of Books, one of the world’s largest independent new and used bookstores, spanning an entire city block.

Eating street food is an integral part of the Portland experience, and the city’s largest food cart “pod” (lot), is just a few blocks south of Powell’s between 9th and 10th Avenues on Washington Street. Here you’ll find upwards of 50 food carts serving inexpensive, generous portions of everything from Ethiopian injera to noodle bowls.

Continue walking south towards the South Park Blocks, a 12-block tree-lined park that culminates at Portland State University. You may want to catch a special exhibit at the Portland Art Museum, located just off the park, or carry on toward the university to catch the tail end of the Portland Farmers Market, held every Saturday until 2 pm. From here, you can either walk to the RiverPlace Hotel or catch the Portland Streetcar back to pick up your luggage and head over to Northeast Portland to check into the Kennedy School.  

This early 20th-century elementary school has been converted into a hotel, and many of the rooms here have been converted from old classrooms, each with either an original chalkboard or a cloakroom. It also happens to be one of Portland’s best spots to sample some of the city’s famed microbrew; all the beers on tap come from the brewery of the McMenamin family, who own a dozen or so other pubs and hotels in Oregon. If you don’t feel like going out, there’s an on-site restaurant with decent pub fare; alternatively, head over to nearby Alberta Street for dinner, where you can get a great Tex-Mex meal at El Nutri Taco or sit down for something a bit fancier at Natural Selection, a tiny fine-dining vegetarian restaurant. After dinner, head back to the Kennedy School for a nightcap or take a dip in the hot outdoor soaking pool, which is open well into the night.

SUNDAY

Sleep in past breakfast, opting instead to save your appetite for one of Portland’s most popular Sunday traditions: brunch. Genies Cafe, just east of the river, is a popular choice, with a huge menu of omelets, scrambles, sandwiches, and even Bloody Marys made with house-infused flavored vodkas. After brunch, a half-hour drive will take you to Multnomah Falls, the state’s tallest waterfall and the star attraction of the gorgeous Columbia River Gorge. While there’s a viewing platform near the base, many visitors opt to hike a mile up to the precipice, 620 feet from the ground. Serious hikers with time to spare can easily tack on a visit to the nearby Wahkeena Falls, which is connected to Multnomah Falls via a five-mile loop trail. If you’ve got a flight to catch, it’s a half-hour drive from the falls to Portland International Airport.

WHERE TO STAY

The RiverPlace Hotel is ideal if you want to be right in the city center but still have direct access to the lovely Willamette River. Other downtown alternatives include the unabashedly hip Ace Hotel or the more traditional Heathman Hotel, which dates back to the 1920s. On the east side of the river, try the Kennedy School or opt for a romantic stay at the Lion and the Rose Victorian Bed & Breakfast.

WHEN TO GO

If you don’t mind the rain, you can certainly visit Portland throughout the year—temperatures rarely drop below 40, even in the winter. That said, the best time to visit the city is in the summer, when pleasantly warm temperatures (usually in the low 80s) and numerous music and culture festivals bring Portland’s social scene outdoors. It often stays warm well into October and sometimes there are heat spells as early as April, but Portland weather is notoriously unpredictable, so come prepared! 

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The Best of Dining & Drinking in Phoenix http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

In the past few years, Phoenix has transformed from a snowbird mecca to a cosmopolitan city with a revitalized downtown. With this transformation has come a happening new food scene that mixes classic Phoenix fare with hip foodie finds. From the best happy hour deal to the most deluxe burger in town, our list of Phoenix’s favorites will have you eating like a local.—David Duran

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How to Visit Buenos Aires with Kids http://ift.tt/1OtHvRh

Buenos Aires is more commonly associated with sipping Malbec, watching sultry tango dances and bar-hopping than it is with family breaks, but the Argentine capital is actually a great spot for a vacation with the kids. There’s a host of stellar kid-friendly attractions, including immense manicured parks, a planetarium and some interactive museums, and the gastronomic legacy of mass Italian migration means that perennial child-pleasers such as spaghetti and pizza can be found in abundance alongside the legendary steaks. Ice cream parlors doubling as coffee shops can be found on every corner will give both kids and grownups a delicious energy boost. And here’s the best bit—family-focused Porteños aren’t about to let kids’ bedtime get in the way of their late-dining habits, and many cafés and restaurants have their own staffed play areas.

Porteño children tend not to take a siesta, but by adapting your routine to involve some afternoon shut-eye, you’ll be able to follow the local routine of eating out way past the kids’ usual bedtime. Don’t stay out too late, though—you’ll want to be up early to take in all the activities the city has to offer. Here’s our pick of some of the best kid-friendly spots in buzzing Buenos Aires.

Experience a Child-Sized City at Museo de los Niños

It may be called a “Children’s Museum,” but this is no staid collection of vintage dolls. In fact, your kids may never forgive you if you don’t take them to this top Buenos Aires attraction at least once during your trip. It’s a fun-packed mini-city, where kids ages 12 and under can play at being adults—working as dentists, doctors, and firefighters, shopping and working the tills in a mini-supermarket, and even flying a plane. There’s easily enough here to keep children entertained for at least half a day, and the location inside an Art Deco shopping mall means grownups can reward themselves with a little retail therapy after a hard day watching the children carve out a career path.

Linger over Lunch at Casa Muamor

Buenos Aires’ plethora of kid-friendly restaurants is balm for the soul of frazzled parents, but the flip side is that families often wind up making dining choices based on the quality of the restaurant’s play area rather than the standard of the food itself. Luckily, rustic-chic corner café Casa Muamor in Palermo—itself a kid-friendly neighborhood thanks to its abundant green spaces—ticks all the boxes. Serving yummy breakfasts, brunch, and child-friendly lunches such as simple pasta dishes, bagels, and toasted sandwiches, it also offers more grownup specials like handmade pizza topped with spinach and a poached egg. Aimed squarely at hip young families, it has one of the most appealing play areas of all the city’s eateries, with dolls’ houses, arts and crafts materials, and even occasional visits from magicians and clowns. Pick a table right next to the large window to keep an eye on little ones as you eat and drink. The coffees are good, and there’s a range of wines and cocktails that might appeal if the children are sufficiently distracted.

Take a Walk on the Wild Side at Temaiken Biopark

Animal-loving kids in Buenos Aires might be tempted to visit the city’s zoo, but the rather run-down enclosures and some forlorn-looking inhabitants can make for a less than uplifting experience. A much better option is Temaiken Biopark. This eco-conscious attraction is located some 30 km out of town in Belen do Escobar, and more than merits a full day.  The animals are kept in large, immaculately maintained enclosures, and there’s an emphasis on educating visitors young and old about the importance of conservation. The range of animals is impressive—from birds of prey to hippos and big cats—and little ones are sure to love the hands-on activities such as hand-feeding calves in the park’s farm. It’s set in manicured grounds, and although picnics aren’t allowed in the park, there are several reasonably priced cafés serving everything from salads and gluten-free cakes to parilla. A “semi-rapid” bus runs out to the park from Plaza Italia, but parents may find it less stressful to go as part of an organized tour.

Encourage Curious Minds at Hands-On Museums

“Forbidden not to touch” is the motto at the playful Museo Participativo de Ciencias, where curious kids can pull weights, spin wheels, mix liquids, and push buttons to their hearts’ content. Older children can generate electricity and burn off some energy in the process, while there are enough bright colors and whooshing sounds to entertain infant visitors. The museum is located inside a cultural center in the smart, picturesque neighborhood of Recoleta, so it may just be possible to squeeze in some art appreciation and sightseeing (don’t miss the grand cemetery, where Eva Perón was laid to rest) too. You can bribe the children with the promise of an ice cream from one of the many sidewalk cafes if necessary. Dino-mad kids can indulge their passion for digging into the past at the Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales, which is home to giant prehistoric skeletons, and kids can even take a stab at digging for bones.

Stroll, Skate, Sunbathe or Stargaze at City Parks

Buenos Aires has more green spaces than you can shake a stick at, and many of them have kids’ play areas as well as ample space to scoot, skate, and play sports. During the steamy Argentine summer, urban beaches made of trucked-in sand spring up amid the greenery at parks across the city, allowing locals and visitors to sunbathe, build sandcastles, and play on giant inflatables. One of the best spaces for strolling, picnicking, and playing in Buenos Aires is the 400-acre Parque 3 de Febrero (also known, somewhat confusingly, as Bosques de Palermo), where visitors can work up an appetite for steaks, pasta, and helado by renting bikes, inline skates, scooters, or pedal boats to explore the park. You might even spot a giraffe head peeking over the walls of the zoo, which is located within the park. Looking like it’s just touched down from outer space, the city’s famous planetarium is also located in the park. While much of the information is in Spanish, the opportunity to watch the evolution of the galaxy take place in a giant laser show, climb into a replica lunar capsule, and admire chunks of moon rock will thrill stargazers young and old.

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19 Things To Do In Paris This Summer http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

The lazy days of summer bring out the best in Paris—long days and languorous nights are perfect for outdoor enjoyment, whether its sipping a cocktail on an elegant terrace, dining al fresco, or enjoying a picnic while taking in a movie en plein air. Outdoor cultural events abound, with an exciting lineup of summer arts festivals, featuring classical music, jazz, or rock in some of the city’s most spectacular gardens. Our insider's guide to the best of Paris this summer makes it easy to plan your trip and summer like a Parisian. —Jennifer Ladonne

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America's Best Beer Gardens http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

The world’s most popular beer gardens might be in Munich, but that doesn’t mean that you need to whip out your passport to enjoy a pint. Beer gardens are cropping up across the United States, giving thirsty patrons a chance to sample local and international brews. The taps might be different, but all the places on our list offer a friendly ambiance and a passion for the craft. From an urban setting in Manhattan to a venue with a koi pond in San Diego, these 23 beer gardens will have you raising a glass. —Emily Wasserman

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8 Things to Bring to Chile http://ift.tt/264oCIT

In 2015, Steve Hely took a trip from his home in southern California to the southern tip of the Western Hemisphere. The trip brought him across the border through Mexico, Central America, and South America to Chile, the last country on his journey. Here’s Steve Hely’s list of the nine essential things to bring to Chile.

Shoes that are good for walking uphill and downhill

Chile is very narrow and has a mountain range, the Andes, spiked through the middle of it like a spine. Odds are you will have to walk either up or down a hill or at the very least a steep street. Bring comfortable shoes! 

Shoes That you don’t mind getting sprayed with permanent red chalk dust

If you’re going to the Atacama Desert, the red sand will stick to your shoes forever. It’s worth it, though—the stars are unbelievable, which is why they put the ALMA, one of the world’s top astronomical interferometers* out there.  Between the colors, the lakes, the flamingos, and the desert craters, the Atacama might be as close as you can get to visiting a bizarre new planet. Although, when we’re able to travel to new planets in the future, the Atacama will still compete as a destination for strange and amazing sights.

*Note: I am not qualified to judge interferometers

A Map

Wi-Fi works in some places but not everywhere, so it’s best to bring a map. This will help when you’re trying to figure out why the bus ride takes seven hours. It will also help you find new places to explore, like beautiful peninsulas jutting into the ocean in a national park. With a map you’ll be way less likely to end up in Chiloe when you meant to go to Puerto Natales. The National Geographic Adventure map of Chile is a great one.

A Good Attitude

Why not? You are a guest here, and you may as well enjoy yourself. It won’t be hard!  Chile is a world leader in, among other things, delicious sandwiches, majestic nature, interesting neighborhoods, and cool-looking lakes.

Some Knowledge

You don’t need to be an expert (unless “Chilean history expert” is your next job.)  But knowing who Simón Bolívar was will let you recognize the statues; knowing who Gabriela Mistral was will help you understand why so many streets are named after her; knowing who Pablo Neruda was will explain why his houses are all museums; and knowing who Salvador Allende and Augusto Pinochet were will help you understand everything. Well worth two hours on Wikipedia.

A Few Spanish Phrases

Some people say to bring a Spanish dictionary, but I say that is hopeless. Chilean Spanish is a rapid-fire, slang-filled mystery, even if you speak pretty good classroom Spanish. Or so I’m told—I don’t even speak below-average classroom Spanish. Still, knowing even a few phrases like please and thank you are a significant leap forward.

A Good Book

By Night In Chile, by Roberto Bolaño, is short, mysterious, compelling, and an engaging way to introduce yourself to Chile’s recent dramatic history. 

Some Simple Medicine

For emergencies. Like, for example, diarrhea. There’s some of the freshest, healthiest food in the world in Chile and amazing places to eat from high-end restaurants to street stands, but it’s easy to get sick while traveling. It never hurts to have some trusty and beloved medicines in your backpack.

If packing was all that was stopping you, you’re almost done! Just remember, also: socks, a swimsuit, a nice warm jacket (even in the desert the nights get cold). Oh, and your passport. Have fun!

Steve Hely’s new book The Wonder Trail: True Stories from Los Angeles to the End of the World  is available now. 

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10 Under-the-Radar North American Wine Regions You Need to Visit http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

While we love Napa and Sonoma, there are many other wine regions to visit without leaving the continent that are just as beautiful. From British Columbia to North Carolina, these less crowded, more adventurous destinations allow you the chance to discover new wines in a more intimate setting, many of which you won’t be able to find back home. Explore the accompanying scenic landscape and chow down on great food for a multi-faceted experience of terroir. Here’s our guide so that everyone, even the designated driver, can have fun.—Amber Gibson

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10 Amazing Outdoor Hotel Pools for Summer http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Forget about over-the-top amenities, fancy linens, and cutting-edge cuisine—sometimes all you care about at a hotel is having a gorgeous pool to dive into. That's never truer than in summer, when both locals and travelers flock to the best outdoor hotel pools for sunshine, swimming, and a lively scene. Whether you’re looking for rejuvenation in the world’s largest hot-springs pool, a thrilling swim over the edge of a building, or a nighttime dip while watching a movie under the stars, these hot properties all offer an escape from the heat and deliver on that "wow" factor.—Zachary Laks

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7 Reasons to Visit Oakland http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Not so long ago, Oakland’s rough neighborhoods were best avoided. In fact, it was smart not to visit. But thanks to an influx of creative types drawn by cheaper rents—artists, chefs, and directors and programmers of nearby Pixar, for starters—all that has changed. Oakland is experiencing an exhilarating cultural renaissance, blossoming into a destination unto itself. Eateries headed by some of the food world’s biggest names (Chez Panisse protégés, for example), thriving cultural venues, lovely parks, urban wineries, and an overall joie de vivre have descended on this diamond in the rough. To top it off, Oakland also has better weather than that foggy “other” city on the bay, as locals will quickly tell you, not that there’s any competition between the two. Here are seven exciting things happening here, now.—Barbara Noe Kennedy

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Wine Lover's Guide to Colorado http://ift.tt/1UQ4EK0

Colorado is known for the outdoors: world-class skiing, hiking, mountain biking, and rock climbing are everyday activities for residents of the Centennial State. But in recent years, Colorado has gained accolades for its wine country as well.

Colorado has more than 300 days of high-altitude sunshine per year, cool nights, and alkaline soil, which create an ideal environment for grape-growing. Pests, mildew, and disease aren’t as big an issue as in coastal, due to the state’s low humidity and precipitation levels. And since Colorado growers rely on irrigation for water, they have more control over the ripening and development of their grapes.

The Bordeaux varieties all do well here–from sauvignon blanc and semillon on the white side, to cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot on the red side. In cooler parts of the state, riesling flourishes and is made in both dry and sweeter styles. Syrah and other Rhône varieties also do well.

For a complete Colorado wine experience, (with scenic backdrops to boot) start your wine tour in Denver, then work your way over to the Western Slope, where the majority of the state’s grapes are cultivated.

Denver

Start the day at Bonacquisti Wine Company. Owner Paul Bonacquisti’s motto is “wine for the people,” and education is the cornerstone of his business. He aims to eliminate the snobbery associated with wine tasting, and his casual, laid-back tasting room in Denver’s Sunnyside neighborhood does just that. You can taste five wines for $5, which is refunded if you buy a bottle. You’ll find plenty of bold reds, but don’t miss the pink moscato and the Port Style grenache, which has hints of caramel and marshmallows, and is aged in a Porto barrel from Portugal.

Next, head to one of Colorado’s oldest wineries, Balisteri Vineyards. Here, you’ll discover a more rustic style of winemaking—even white wines are fermented on the skins, resulting in a fuller body than you may be accustomed to. There’s a small vineyard on site, but they also source grapes from the Western Slope. All of Balisteri’s wines are single-vineyard varieties, meaning that instead of blending all of one type of grape together to make a Balisteri blend, they are kept separate so you can appreciate each terroir and grower’s style. Settle in and stay for lunch at the on-site café—everything here, except the imported cheeses and cured meats, is made from scratch using local ingredients.

For your last Denver stop, head toward the trendy River North neighborhood to taste the distinctive wines at The Infinite Monkey Theorem, which prides itself on “back-alley winemaking at its finest.” Owner Ben Parsons offers kegged and canned wines (perfect for hiking Colorado’s trails) in addition to bottles. Tours are available for $25, or treat yourself to a private or barrel tasting ($35 and $50, respectively) for a true VIP experience. You’ll learn about Parsons’s environmentally focused winemaking process from the master.

Spend the night at The Crawford Hotel in Union Station. You’ll find fantastic wines to enjoy with dinner at the farm-to-table restaurants inside the restored train depot, or walk over to 16th Street Mall if you feel like checking out the nightlife downtown. 

Grand Junction/Palisade/Grand Valley AVA

Today, you have one of the most beautiful drives in the state ahead of you. Head west on I-70, passing through Summit County (where many of Colorado’s big-name ski resorts are located), and through the incredible feat of engineering and geographic wonder that is Glenwood Canyon. It’s a four-hour drive, so leave early.

The best way to enjoy Western Slope wine country is via bicycle. The folks at Rapid Creek Cycles in Palisade will get you set up. Choose from cruiser or electric bikes ($39 and $60 for the day), which both have baskets for the local goodies you’re sure to purchase. You’ll receive a map of all the area wineries, and the staff is happy to make suggestions for a customized tour. Don’t worry about being unfamiliar with the area; it’s a small town and even if you get lost, friendly residents will point you in the right direction.

Standout wineries include Colterris Vineyards, Grande River Vineyards, and the female-owned and -operated Plum Creek Winery. If you’re into fruit wines, don’t miss Talon Wines and St. Kathryn Cellars; their wines showcase the bounty of the area’s many local peach, cherry, plum, apricot, and apple orchards.

Between wine tastings, stop in at Sage Creations Organic Farm, whose specialty is lavender (they have a great gift shop), and SunCrest Orchard Alpacas, where you can buy yarn, socks, teddy bears, and other handmade items made from the adorable resident alpacas’ wool. 

You’ll have burned some calories today, so indulge in a decadent dinner downtown. For an authentic Italian experience, choose Il Bistro Italiano, where the focus is on Northern Italian cuisine. On wine night, bottles are half off, and they also have regular four-course pairing dinners. If you’re lucky, you might be in the dining room when the owner slices into one of the giant imported wheels of parmigiana. Bin 707 Foodbar is an excellent choice for charcuterie, small plates, and gastronomic flair.

Hunker down at Two Rivers Winery & Chateau, where you’ll wake up to a homemade hot breakfast, excellent coffee, and scenic views of the Grand Valley. Plus, you’ll be able to fit in a quick tasting before you depart tomorrow. 

Paonia/West Elks AVA

Today, head southeast toward Colorado’s smaller AVA in Delta County. The heart of the action is in Paonia, which has plentiful orchards and a sleepy, small-town feel (the downtown is all of three blocks, filled with quirky shops and a handful of family-owned restaurants).

Must-visits are Alfred Eames Cellars and Black Bridge Winery (where you can stock up on delicious local canned goods). Make your last stop Azura Cellars & Gallery; the winery doubles as a high-end art gallery. Order a chilled bottle of pinot gris and plant yourself on the sunny patio. Panoramic views of the North Fork Valley, including the iconic Mount Lamborn and Land’s End, are the perfect ending to your Colorado wine tour.  

For a unique lodging experience, make reservations at Wisehart Springs Inn , which looks like a modern castle. The building is a work of art in itself, each room is cozy and individually decorated, and the owners, Art and Erin, are happy to offer suggestions about other area excursions. They provide a basket of locally made bread and goat-milk cheese, fruit, chocolate, and smoked salmon to get you off to a good start for your journey home.  

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10 Amazing Eco-Hotels in Asia http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

All over Asia, hotels have ramped up efforts to offset carbon footprints by rolling out programs to preserve the biodiversity that draws travelers there in the first place. From the Philippines islands to the outskirts of Beijing, here are a few eco-friendly hotels and resorts leading the way in sustainability, energy efficiency, recycling, marine conservation, education initiatives, and more.—Kate Springer

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