5 Apr 2016

5 Must-Visit Dublin Spots for Art Lovers http://ift.tt/25Kd3rk

The nation of Ireland itself could be considered a work of art, such is its natural beauty. But the Emerald Isle is also home to a wide range of manmade art, from the medieval era through the present. For art lovers, there’s no better place to take it all in than in Dublin, with its world-class museums and galleries. So put down your Guinness (or your single-malt Teeling), take a breath of fresh air along the Quayside, and head to these places to see great art in Dublin.

Trinity College Library

Trinity College Library

Artists regularly trash works in their studio if and when they feel it doesn’t gel with their larger practice. So imagine a single book that has not only survived the patience of a group of skilled artisans, but Viking invasions, devastating fires, and crippling diseases . . . all before 1200 A.D.  This brilliantly illuminated manuscript contains the Four Gospels of the common Bible. It was so magnificent in detail and scope of craftsmanship that it is thought to be used more for an ornamental purpose rather than as an educational tool for the faithful. Today it rests in the library at Trinity College (where it has been kept since the 19th century). Keep an eye out for the overwhelmingly beautiful “Chi Rho” monogram, where the Greek letters standing for “Christ” consume an entire page in garnet, gold, and dark umber colors. Upon emerging from the dark room where the book is held, let your breath be taken away again once inside The Long Room Library.

National Gallery of Ireland

National Gallery of Ireland

Mere steps away from Trinity College, in front of Merrion Square, is the National Gallery of Ireland, which holds works from around the Western world. The gallery did not have its own collection upon its founding in 1854, but over the years has built up a trove of works from masters such as Caravaggio, Velázquez, Picasso, Monet, Delacroix, Titian, Van Dyck, and Reynolds. A recently discovered work by Irish impressionist Aloysius O’Kelly is now on long-term loan to the Gallery, reflecting a secretive Catholic Mass held in a cabin in the West Country of Ireland. Best of all, entrance to the Gallery is free of charge.

Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA)

Irish Museum of Modern Art

In 1991, Taoiseach Charles J. Haughey officially opened the Irish Museum of Modern Art, housed at the 17th-century Royal Hospital of Kilmainham. The building is architecturally stunning, based on Les Invalides in Paris, and its former stables have been converted, restored, and extended to offer massive viewing spaces and a museum-run artist-in-residence studio. Artists featured in the museum’s permanent collection include Marina Abramović, Louise Bourgeois, Chuck Close, Jasper Johns, and Ed Ruscha. Irish artists of note in the collection include Dorothy Cross, Willie Doherty, Sean Scully, and Mick O’Dea.

Dublin City Gallery The Hugh Lane

Dublin City Gallery The Hugh Lane

Not only is Dublin City Gallery The Hugh Lane an active charity and house for international modern and contemporary art, but it is also where Francis Bacon’s original studio is now permanently housed after it was transferred (in its entirety, including walls, floors, ceiling, objects, and even the dust) from London to Dublin. A full catalogue of the artist’s work is held at the gallery, and it (and the larger collection) is free and open to the public. Works by Edgar Degas, Agnes Martin, Ellsworth Kelly, Joseph Beuys, and Berthe Morisot are only some of the highlights of the gallery’s permanent collection.

Gallery Hopping

For those who are plugged in to the most current waves of contemporary art, there is a healthy offering of galleries that have achieved global recognition. Kerlin Gallery’s formidable roster includes artists such as Dorothy Cross, Willie Doherty, David Godbold, and Richard Gorman. Kevin Kavanagh Gallery’s international program has shown at major art fairs held in Basel, Brussels, Madrid, and Miami. The quirky project called mother’s tankstation has been a celebrated incubator of contemporary art at the Frieze London, Art Basel (in Basel, Miami Beach, and Hong Kong), FIAC (Paris), and NADA (New Art Dealers Alliance) art fairs. Taylor Galleries has been based in the city since 1978 and shows an array of 20th- and 21st-century paintings, sculptures, prints, and works on paper by Irish artists.



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America's 15 Best Small-Town Festivals http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

You may not know it, but some of the country’s best festivals are held in small towns scattered throughout the U.S. Featuring a wide range of unique themes, and ranging in size and scope, these celebrations often include parades, entertainment, food, and plenty of special events. Make an effort to time a vacation with one of these beloved fests, which are held at various points throughout the year. Music festivals, film festivals, flower festivals, food festivals, and more make the list of America’s 15 best small-town events. —Annie Bruce



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5 Can�t-Miss Food Experiences in L.A. http://ift.tt/1MRvKCU

From Echo Park to Koreatown, West Hollywood to Century City, Marina del Rey to Beverly Hills, greater Los Angeles is one of the most exciting food cities in the country right now. A list of all the best eating and drinking experiences in the City of Angels could fill a dictionary; here are five favorites—some new, some institutions, all absolutely essential.

The Trois Trio

Trois Mec Big Mec

Ludo Lefebvre first gained notoriety in L.A. for his LudoBites pop-up dinner parties. These days, after teaming up with chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun), he runs three restaurants in the city: Trois Mec, Petit Trois and Trois Families. Each is different; each is worth a visit, although the original is by far the most difficult reservation to secure. Trois Mec resides in a Hollywood strip mall beneath a blinking neon sign for its former tenant, Raffallo's Pizza. Seats for the 6 and 8 pm seatings each night are sold through Tock and go for $85, which gets you five unusual courses (recently, carrot tartare and king crab buried in tangy sushi rice) set to circa-1990s hip-hop. Next door, Petit Trois (average main $27) is the dark, loud, high-energy bistro of your dreams. There's a handful of tables and a bar fronting an open kitchen where Lefebvre's crew crushes classics like steak frites, buttery omelets, vampire-repelling escargot, and a bordelaise-drenched burger. It's walk-in only, so go at off hours. Trois Familia (average main $12) is the newest member of the group, a sunny breakfast-and-lunch-only spot in trendy Silver Lake with communal picnic tables, melon-hued walls, and drop ceilings. The menu here riffs between French (electric lemon crêpes) and Mexican (a fantastic Milanesa de pollo), and the chances for a celeb sighting are high. Hey, Pete from The League!

Koreatalian

Baroo

Korean-born Kwang Uh and Matthew Kim, the chefs and partners at Baroo (average main $12), would probably shudder at the word, but it’s hard to find a better one to adequately express the thrilling pastas at this stripped-down, idiosyncratic hole-in the-wall slotted like a paperback between a 7-11 and hair salon in a forlorn Hollywood strip mall. Uh and Kim’s wavy, tagliatelle-like noodles would pass muster at the best Italian restaurants in the country, but dishes skew East with components like gochujang-enriched oxtail ragu with puffed beef tendon. Jars of assorted pickles and kimchi decorate the stark white room and show up all over the menu in grain bowls and on salads: pineapple kimchi, onions scented with rose petals, passion fruit kraut, shiso beets, and more. Uh, who worked for Daniel Boulud and Nobu Matsuhisa and did the obligatory Noma stage before striking out on his own, calls Baroo a “freestyle experimental kitchen.” The joyful sense of creativity that powers the place earned it a spot on the James Beard Foundation’s semifinalist list for Best New Restaurant. If you dine at only one restaurant in L.A., make it this one.

Abbot Kinney

Gjelina

Lined with bungalow boutiques, pop-up craft markets, and fashion labels high-end and ragamuffin, the diagonal boulevard slicing through Venice Beach is so hip, it’s almost a caricature of itself, as if any day someone will announce the publication of an ironic shelter magazine dedicated to the lifestyle of its inhabitants. That said, go there. The mile-and-change stretch is the best drag in L.A. for eating and drinking. Abbot Kinney’s core edible and drinkable attractions fall between Broadway Street and Venice Boulevard, from the perpetually thronged Intelligentsia and Blue Bottle outposts to breezy, seafood-focused Salt Air (average main $29) and ZenBunni, a biodynamic chocolate shop hidden down an alley. Portland, Oregon’s Blue Star Donuts and Salt & Straw Ice Cream have set up shop on Abbot Kinney. But you really can’t talk about this street without mentioning Travis Lett and his restaurant, Gjelina (average main $23). Open all day and always busy, the eatery deals in stuff like bottarga-dusted burrata, heirloom lettuce salads, and duck confit with mandarinquats. The thin-crusted pizzas are remarkable and—if you can’t bear the wait—available to go at GTA (Gjelina Take Away).

Hollywood Farmers’ Market

Hollywood Farmers Market

Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, the Hollywood Farmers’ Market (L.A.’s best) sets up Sundays on Ivar Avenue between Hollywood and Sunset. It’s a scene that draws vibrant mix (including celebrities), so get there early, when there are still some unoccupied plastic tables by Delmy’s Pupusas, the stall you should definitely visit for breakfast. After polishing off a pair, grab a watermelon juice from the jugo vendor next door and start shopping for souvenirs: candy-like dates from Bautista’s, radiant citrus, spiced pistachios, more varieties of avocado than you knew existed… It’s an orgy of fresh local food that will make every winter-hardened Northeasterner die a little inside. Note: If you’re leery about packing your carry-on full of tangelos, there’s a strong contingent of artisans here, as well, selling woven moccasins, tintype portraits, on-demand typewriter poems, and other nonperishable take-homes.

More Than Toast at Sqirl

Sqirl

Jessica Koslow’s Sqirl (average main $9), the microchip-size café/cultural juggernaut in Silver Lake, is famous for toast. In fact, the proper name for the thick-cut brioche slathered with ricotta and house-made jam is “Famed Ricotta Toast.” And it’s great (as is Sqirl’s equally well-known avocado toast), but if you buy the hype and bypass the rest of the curious, nourishing, tantalizing things on the menu, you’ll be missing out. So come here hungry, early, and with a group and be ready to fawn over poached eggs with gingery tomato-braised chickpeas, carrot sopes piled with duck mole, and kabocha squash socca pancakes. Wondering why the rice in the savory rice bowl and sweet porridge is so flavorful? Hint: It’s not just the sorrel pesto and lacto-fermented hot sauce. Sqirl uses Koda Farms’ Kukuho Rose, a proprietary heirloom developed in the 1950s, just one example of the excellent products Koslow uses to elevate L.A.’s morning and afternoon meals.



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4 Apr 2016

20 Gorgeous Seaside Towns in Italy http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

Have you ever been to Rome in August and wondered where all the locals are? The truth is that they're likely in one of these towns, as Italians in major cities make a mass exodus toward the coast every summer. Many of the well-known beaches get crowded or too touristy, but this list also includes some under-the-radar gems where you can escape the hubbub. From the Italian Riviera to the farthest reaches of Sicily, there are plenty of seaside villages to please travelers in search of pristine beaches, ancient ruins, art, culture, and delicious cuisine. So why not do as the Romans do and head to the sea? —Laura Itzkowitz



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3 Apr 2016

16 National Parks with Amazing Scenic Drives http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

When the weather turns warm and the days grow longer, it's time to start planning your next road trip, some of the best of which can be found in the country's national parks. We've searched from coast to coast (and in Alaska and Hawaii) to find the very best scenic drives, the ones that are guaranteed to take your breath away.



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1 Apr 2016

25 Ultimate Things to Do in Madrid http://ift.tt/eA8V8J

With its impressive roster of world-class museums, royal palaces, and scenic parks, taking in all Madrid has to offer can be daunting, especially if you plan to dabble in the city’s other major claim to fame: sundown-to-sunup nightlife. Thankfully, though, most of Madrid’s main attractions sit within walking distance from one another, so with a little determination—and the jolt from a café con leche or two—you can tackle them all in just a few days. Tapas bars, busy plazas, outdoor markets, and hidden hotspots—these are the 25 things you won’t want to miss on your next trip to the sunny capital. —Benjamin Kemper



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5 Gourmet Wine Experiences in Napa http://ift.tt/1MIGUK9

Some of the best food and wine in Napa can't be found at restaurants, but at wineries. You’ll have to reserve ahead, but these splurge-worthy tours offer gastronomic experiences that go far beyond the swirl, sip, and spit routine you’ll find at most tasting rooms. Some programs offer a meal while others serve simple bites to accompany a flight of wines, but either way, it makes for a very memorable wine country experience.

Palmaz Vineyards

Palmaz Vineyards

Palmaz Vineyards is located close to downtown Napa, in the Coombsville region. Family run with a cave dug into the mountain, the winery offers superb views of the vineyards and is a blend of super high tech and artful elegance. The Private Tour & Tasting ($80) begins with a walk through the cave with an ambassador who explains how the wines are made using state-of-the-art gravity-flow winemaking methods and an introduction to the proprietary Fermentation Intelligence Logic Control System, which tracks the wine at a molecular level, allowing for a greater level of precision, such as adjusting temperatures in different parts of the tanks.

Following the tour, guests have a guided tasting with five wines, each paired with a small hors d’oeuvre such as a smoked salmon canapé paired with Napa Valley chardonnay “Amalia," smoked magret duck breast with crème cheese; fig preserves, and chives paired with cabernet sauvignon; and a shortbread cookie with goat cheese, almond, and dried mango with muscat canelli “Florencia.”

Del Dotto Vineyards

Del Dotto

Del Dotto has vineyards in many regions of Napa where they produce cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, sangiovese, and sauvignon blanc. They also have vineyards on the Sonoma coast where they produce pinot noir, chardonnay, and limited amounts of syrah and sauvignon blanc.

The winery has two locations open to the public, and their premier tasting, Delicacies by Del Dotto program ($95) takes place at their St. Helena Estate Winery & Caves location. The tasting experience begins in the caves with a barrel tasting of four wines followed by five luxurious bites, each paired with wine. The food is prepared by executive chef Joshua Schwartz, whose pedigree includes stints at The French Laundry, Bouchon, and Per Se. While just nibbles, the menu typically includes a mini Maine lobster roll, a foie gras terrine, and American Wagyu beef truffle slider paired with a range of wines from a Sonoma sparkling wine to chardonnay, cabernet, and pinot noir.

B.Cellars

B.Cellars

B.Cellars makes 18 different wines in all but has very small production, about 9,000 cases per year, and 80% is sold direct to consumers. Their Napa Valley facility was built specifically to give people the experience of wine paired with food.

The Chef’s Garden Pairing ($135) is the most extensive experience and allows guests to dine in the garden overlooking the vineyards. The two-hour journey, available daily at 11 am, begins with a brief tour hosted by a wine guide and educator to see the winemaking facility as well as the olive grove, beehives, and chickens on the property. Food is served family style at a communal table with five wines and four courses crafted from ingredients sourced from local farms and growers, as well as the farmers' market. The meal generally starts with a flatbread from the wood-burning oven, then a salad with local cheese and preserves, followed by house-made pasta, then a meat entrée that’s elegantly prepared with vegetables from the garden and ending with local cheeses and handmade chocolates. Wines served might include a Barrel Select chardonnay, Juliana sauvignon blanc, and St. Helena cabernet sauvignon.

Franciscan Estate Winery

Franciscan Estate Winery

Franciscan is known for nuanced and lush cabernet sauvignon and merlot as well as one of the first meritage blends in Napa, Magnificat. The winery, which opened in 1973, also produces an excellent wild yeast-fermented chardonnay called Cuvée Sauvage.

Every Friday Franciscan Estate gives guests the VIP experience at a luxurious three course Reserve Lunch ($135). The meal is served in an elegant dining room, hosted by a wine educator and prepared by the winery chef. Chef Brett Young prepares dishes such as potato gnocchi with pancetta, black trumpet mushroom, and butternut squash; beef rib rye and short rib with grits, vegetable ragout, and sauce au poivre; or lobster Caesar salad, each expertly paired with wine.

Long Meadow Ranch

Long Meadow Ranch

Long Meadow Ranch is a rare endeavor in Napa. The Hall family raises cattle and lamb, farms organically, makes olive oil, and keeps bees in addition to making fine Bordelais-style wines from grapes grown at Mayacamas, Rutherford, and Anderson Valley.

Their premier tasting is the Chef’s Table ($135), which takes place at an outdoor garden table or indoors at the Hospitality House at 12:30 pm for lunch and 6 pm for dinner, lasting 2 hours. The estate chef sets the menu based on what has been freshly harvested from the farm and often features either their grass-fed beef or lamb. The four-course menu might start with warm local asparagus soup with an olive-oil poached egg, morel mushrooms, and Meyer lemon served with a Rutherford sauvignon blanc, and an entrée such as pastured lamb loin with celery root, spiced red cabbage, and rosemary-kumquat marmalade, served with a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon.

Amy Sherman is a San Francisco–based food and travel writer and cookbook author. She has written for Shermans Travel, Frommer’s, Recipe.com and Epicurious, as well as 7x7, Cheers and Gastronomica magazines. Follow her @cookingwithamy



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